PAR parts?

Depends. If possible take a photo of example and send it to Mayhem to post in your section so both we all understand the scope of your problem, and more important, others will have something to watch out for.

First question or thing for you to look into is if the lamp base is also bad. Does that lamp base have sufficient tension to it to plug a lamp into it and pick up the lamp by way of lamp base only? Can you pick that lamp up by way of the lamp base, even wiggle it a bit without the lamp falling?

Next, do the wires coming off the lamp base go to some form of splice or do they as wires extend to the plug?

You mention the plug is also melted down, this is something to be curious of, explain or photo also.

After these, yes it’s possible and fairly easy to replace the wiring on a PAR fixture. Before this however we have to know what form of system you are using. Also photo or describe - including what writing is on the strain relief in both brand and part number.

Finally, while doing some quick checks on the can, check that ground wire. A ground wire that easily rotates in it’s attachment to the can is a very bad for conductivity ground and will also need to be replaced. If in good condition and it does not easily move on the other hand, this will be one less thing to work on.
 
Sorry to be unclear -- the plug is not melted down. Only the exposed individual wiring that was inside the can has lost it's insulation -- the power cord assembly is fine once outside the can. The lamp bases are also fine, but they are not the kind that can be opened; they are riveted (not bolted) together, so I figured it would just be easier to replace the whole cord assembly. Mike
 
Normally yes it's easier to replace the cord assembly with a better brand of lamp base that has a 44" cable whip on it. At that point, chances are you would be needing to re-do the ground wire, often replace the strain relief and buy a ground wire plus #0 fiberglass sleeving for over the conductors. Plus the ring terminal and screw or rivet for the ground.

The other option is to do as it sounds like the rock and roll can had done previous to you, attach the lamp base to a thermoplastic cord or other multi-conductor cord. Either a new one which would have to comply with the NEC or the same one which was certified for use on the fixture.

In any case, I'm trying to get a feel for the condition of the fixture in how it's arranged or what would need to be replaced.

So here is another question, is it getting used on a stage?

From what you describe, it's a typical rock and roll PAR can and the wiring splice from base to cord and the cord feeding that splice inside of the can either touched the light or melted down by way of heat. This is a typical repair.

I recommend the new at least 105C ground wire, 44" long lead Sylvania brand lamp base that runs direct to the plug, and some fiberglass sleeving over it. Simple and easy to do without replacing something that's going to burn up again.

There is other ways to do this but it's the simplist. Replacing the cord to something that will better take the heat is the best option.
 
Normally yes it's easier to replace the cord assembly with a better brand of lamp base that has a 44" cable whip on it. At that point, chances are you would be needing to re-do the ground wire, often replace the strain relief and buy a ground wire plus #0 fiberglass sleeving for over the conductors. Plus the ring terminal and screw or rivet for the ground.

The other option is to do as it sounds like the rock and roll can had done previous to you, attach the lamp base to a thermoplastic cord or other multi-conductor cord. Either a new one which would have to comply with the NEC or the same one which was certified for use on the fixture.

In any case, I'm trying to get a feel for the condition of the fixture in how it's arranged or what would need to be replaced.

So here is another question, is it getting used on a stage?

From what you describe, it's a typical rock and roll PAR can and the wiring splice from base to cord and the cord feeding that splice inside of the can either touched the light or melted down by way of heat. This is a typical repair.

I recommend the new at least 105C ground wire, 44" long lead Sylvania brand lamp base that runs direct to the plug, and some fiberglass sleeving over it. Simple and easy to do without replacing something that's going to burn up again.

There is other ways to do this but it's the simplist. Replacing the cord to something that will better take the heat is the best option. It's also code compliant in this method for use on stage.
 
Any theater supply or lamp dealer on-line or in your town will either stock one of many brands of PAR 64/56 lamp bases or can easily get them. If that's too difficult almost any electrical supply can get this EMEP or MOEP or GX-16d, Extended Mogul End Post lamp base from Leviton, Sylvania, Ushio, Bender Wirth, AAG and many other manufacturers.

Socket for a : GX16d = 2.1/16" wide, Mogul End Prong 31/64" high, Pin oc. is 16.6mm, and 13.6mm Long or (EMEP) Extended Mogul End Prong, Double Contact 1.1/4" high

Altman's part number for instance for a basic lamp base would be #58-0007 for either something they have made for them or something from Leviton.

TMB's part number for a Sylvania brand would be MOEP-48.

IN other words, this lamp base, nor any of the associated parts that will go with it are difficult to find or get. Heck, you can just call up Grainger or McMaster and they would be able to get the parts for you.
 
I mistakenly posted these in another topic (to which Ship has linked above). However, here they are again so that you can keep everything in perspective.
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