To add a
bit on the pin splitting...as Sean said do NOT overdo it.. This is a careful practice..and if you use a knife (which you will damage in doing this) be VERY careful while you are tryin to get it between the pins or the knife can get away from you--seen it cut up many a tech who slipped..knives are dangerous so I just want to
point out the
safety factor here. Wearing a good heavy leather glove in the other
hand holding the
plug is a saving grace you will be glad that you did should you slip. Other items you can use is a small (almost jewlers small) old throw-away
flat head screw
driver (but it will most likely
snap if you overdo it)....I've also seen folks use old spade putty knives/spatulas as well..and others have made their own splitter by taking an old
flat head screw
driver to a grinder wheel. The larger gap is at the bottom of the pin--if you can
wedge your splitter at the bottom of the pin, and slide it upwards to the top in the
groove, you usually do just enough to make a firm contact and a decent split sometimes. It would be best if you can determine which one of the pins is loose--sometimes one side is very loose and the other side is just right--and if so you don't want to split the side that is already a good connection or you will have a dificult time on that side when connecting/disconnecting.... Either way you want to make sure that ALL the pins are making good solid contact and not just one--so make sure you do or check them all and ensure a solid connection--stage pin connectors are friction connectors--you want to ensure you have good contact on ALL of the pins or you can
build up heat or get arcing or pitting if you only do one pin the rest or the others are loose.. Again just be careful and do not go crazy on splitting like you have to put a visable divide between pins--not so. Some folks get all 'mountain-man' strong on gapping pins--and its NOT neccesary...as too much separation torque can sheer off one side of a pin and you then need to replace the whole pin or the
plug, and if you spread them too much you may practically need a pry bar to get the
plug apart afterwards. A good connection can dangle freely and not disconect and requires two hands to pull apart. If you tug or yank on the
connector hanging freely, you don't want it to pull apart so easily or gap half way. We're talking microns of separation here..a little manipulation of the pins can go a long way to establishing a good solid connection. And a small
tab of tape with a dogear or
courtesy tab which simply spans between the two connectors is always a good practice as well..but it is not a solution to not pin-split....remember you want to ensure there is solid contact of the pins to prevent arcing, heating or pitting of the
connector...
The GAMCHECK is a decent toy if you are looking for testers. But I also strongly second the multi-meter as a better choice to have for the reason that it is possible to have a lamp test positive for
continuity and still not function--the path of the
voltage in a
continuity test doesn't mean it went
thru the
filament completely or even at all--just means that it completed its path but does not tell you where...if you have a multi-meter you can test for continuity--but you can also test for resistance/Ohms as well, and also
meter your
power to ensure the proper
voltage.. Plus you can test a wide range of any cables or other connectors other than just a lamp or
pin connector tester. A
meter is a much more handy and versitile tool to get to know how to use overall in every aspect for many applications across the board--not like a gamcheck which is great for lamps and pin cable only....and a handy pocket
meter from radio shack costs less than $30 while a gamcheck can run signifacntly more expensive...
JMO...
-w