PNG and extension cords

Emaline

Member
Hi, I've been asked for some PBG, which I gather from the internet is this? But I don't have enough. Is a regular household extension cord comparable? We're setting up lighting equipment in the actors' homes. Thanks!
 

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"PBG" stands for "parallel blade and ground," which uses the connectors in your photograph. People also call it "Edison cable;" technically the connectors are NEMA 5-15.

There's some printing along the length of the cable itself -- "SOOW" -- and there should be an additional marking indicating the actual gauge of the cable -- I'd guess 14/3 from the photo. That stands for "14 gauge, 3 conductors."

If you're renting cable from a live event vendor, they'll supply you with the right stuff. Household extension cords that you get at big box stores range from 12/3 (a thicker gauge, capable of supporting more power) down to 16/3 or even 18/3, which can't support much power at all without overheating and causing problems.

First, what are you using for lighting equipment? Lighting fixtures range anywhere from a 100 watt household bulb (like a clip light) to theatrical lighting fixtures, which might be 500 - 1000 watts each; and film lights, which might reach up to 2000 watts (or more). So first, check what lighting equipment is going to be used.

Second, what's their house like? Is anything else plugged into the same outlet? Is there more than one outlet on the same circuit breaker? *Most* residential outlet are 15 amp, meaning they can support 1800 watts (Watts = Volts x Amps). But I would be conservative here and restrict the power usage to 12 or 10 amps, meaning a maximum of 1200 watts -- especially if the house is older, or if you can't find the circuit breaker panel.

Lastly -- take a look at that cable with the yellow connectors. It looks like it's fraying or separated at the connector. Please fix or replace this cable before you use it!
 
"PBG" stands for "parallel blade and ground," which uses the connectors in your photograph. People also call it "Edison cable;" technically the connectors are NEMA 5-15.

There's some printing along the length of the cable itself -- "SOOW" -- and there should be an additional marking indicating the actual gauge of the cable -- I'd guess 14/3 from the photo. That stands for "14 gauge, 3 conductors."

If you're renting cable from a live event vendor, they'll supply you with the right stuff. Household extension cords that you get at big box stores range from 12/3 (a thicker gauge, capable of supporting more power) down to 16/3 or even 18/3, which can't support much power at all without overheating and causing problems.

First, what are you using for lighting equipment? Lighting fixtures range anywhere from a 100 watt household bulb (like a clip light) to theatrical lighting fixtures, which might be 500 - 1000 watts each; and film lights, which might reach up to 2000 watts (or more). So first, check what lighting equipment is going to be used.

Second, what's their house like? Is anything else plugged into the same outlet? Is there more than one outlet on the same circuit breaker? *Most* residential outlet are 15 amp, meaning they can support 1800 watts (Watts = Volts x Amps). But I would be conservative here and restrict the power usage to 12 or 10 amps, meaning a maximum of 1200 watts -- especially if the house is older, or if you can't find the circuit breaker panel.

Lastly -- take a look at that cable with the yellow connectors. It looks like it's fraying or separated at the connector. Please fix or replace this cable before you use it!
Thanks, @theatricalmatt. I think there are mostly LED pucks involved, but they just handed me a list and asked me to gather the things on it, so I don't know too much about the big picture. The actors are being given power strips. Thanks for pointing out the fraying cable. I'll make sure to address that before it goes out.
 
Much like what Matt warned about the gauge of the cables being used, double check that the power strips people are being given can handle the load as well..
 
Photos like that always make me wonder. Plug strips are supposed to be safety devices!

Are some of those switches not also circuit breakers? Or are there many defective out there?
How much current does it take to do that much melting?
Could a voltage error do that? Like 480!
What else has to go wrong?
That power strip looks like someone plugged their 1500 watt ceramic heater into it and left it run all day. Your local fire department sees that more than they would like to.
 
Photos like that always make me wonder. Plug strips are supposed to be safety devices!

Are some of those switches not also circuit breakers? Or are there many defective out there?
How much current does it take to do that much melting?
Could a voltage error do that? Like 480!
What else has to go wrong?

That one was a heater, I just grabbed the first image I found on Google.

Surge protector strips - different than generic power strips - are supposed to protect the connected devices from spikes/surges; although if that's what you are after, look for a UL 1449 TVSS (Transient Voltage Surge Suppression) rating, rather than the basic UL label.

The plugs are different for different voltages (think your range or dryer 240V plug rather than the 'standard' 115V outlet - at least for the US), so it would take some intentional fiddling to run 480 through one of them.

And, as noted, the cheaper the unit, the more likely you are to see something like this. From what I've read, most are designed for about 12A of load, or around 1,500W.

It's unlikely, (thus why I said check the rating, not don't do it) but if someone decided to run a couple of 1,000W lamps to light their video, it's approaching this level of overload.
 
A dive boat burned in Calif., killed 34 people, overheated power strips charging cell phones. It is certainly possible that built in over current devices fail
to function properly, especially on really cheap models.

two of the victims were close friends of several of my friends. Whole situation is tragic and shameful.
 
I've run 1500w on similar strips without heating. I'm guessing it'd take more like 5000w to do that.
Ahhh. . . but you're likely sensible enough to face your 1500 Watt heater away from your strip, and / or place the strip behind your heater where cooler air would possibly be drawn across it both dissipating heat from the strip and preheating air entering your heater.
Think energy saving / efficiency.
Toodleoo!
Ron Hebbard
 
This looks like overheating from a loose connection. The reason the breaker never tripped was because there was never enough current drawn.
 
Was gonna say -- worn or dirty receptacles and/or dirty/corroded plugs will do this too on both plugging strips AND wall receptacles. Starts lotsa fires that way.
 

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