Totally on the fence in having worked many many Asbestos fixtures including fully restoring c.1928 strips and many, many other strips over the years in this medium screw and other lamp configurations.
12ga wiring the initial question is as standard if fed thru and even if not for vintage.
Asbestos outside is asbestos inside.
Describing a A-19 style household lamps used in the fixtures... or perhaps A-21 lamp strip (as also possible) - seperate fixtures in details for lamp type - one needs a lamp extender so as to work with A-19 lamp and important to know because of very different lighting fixture housings. Length and brand of fixtures as with photos also useful.
Osram having discontinued the 100A/HAL/F Osram #18970 makes optimum and compatable or better usage of either A-19 or A-21 fixture a moot point in not having a good option for a replacement lamp for the fixture. This is unless going with say a 100A21/CL/KR/RS Aero-Tech #ULA-98 with 20,000 hour lamp life (assuming still made - think it is), in being fairly cheap for upgrade and will last a long time, but to be sure less output.
Not mentioned on the scope and scale beyond replacing whips is lamp socket condition and internal wiring. This much less dependant on fixture, re-porcelain enamelling the reflector coatings (very messy if the case - but can be done.)
In such work, all lamp sockets wil have to come out and be re-surfaced and coated following protocols I presented over the years especially with the P-28s lamp socket as similar. This to get non corroded lamp contact surface area. Next the huge problem is mostly found is that the asbestos wiring will have been soldered in conductor to the lamp socket. So while the asbestos wiring between lamp sockets is within program to remove in cutting so as to remove it, you are still left with wiring that a propane torch will have to be used to carefully remove the also lead based solder from the terminals to the lamp sockets most often wiring is attached to.
One could replace all lamp sockets and even add lamp extenders if a A-21 type fixture, but this it dependant on the type of lamp socket in use and if still available on the market.
I don't collect strip or Cyc's or index lights for my museum. They just take up too much space. (Not even those purged from inventory - the Altman R-7s , MR-16 or even MR-11 based.) A shame, but the industry is LED.
The man/hours it takes per fixture to restore them also even if donated time, is also too much at this point. I have over the past about 25+ years restored dozens of strip lights - starting from the period in my learning from indeed wiring a set with THHN wire and vinyl butt splices no doubt, thru fully restored respectable and working.
Discontuned of the 100w A-19 halogen Osram lamp was a major factor in my stopping the saving of the fixtures. My arguement that such fixtures were viable and perhaps better once restored ended with the lamp. Too much work also on a strip, often they extended past my garage and or I had to break them apart.
They were something and well did.
A shame many theater students or store front theaters' don't even have them. Sorry, properly dispose of them. Anyone that says they can properly service call them back to factory spec. in safety has no idea of what they were saying or intending to do for what is needed.
12ga wiring the initial question is as standard if fed thru and even if not for vintage.
Asbestos outside is asbestos inside.
Describing a A-19 style household lamps used in the fixtures... or perhaps A-21 lamp strip (as also possible) - seperate fixtures in details for lamp type - one needs a lamp extender so as to work with A-19 lamp and important to know because of very different lighting fixture housings. Length and brand of fixtures as with photos also useful.
Osram having discontinued the 100A/HAL/F Osram #18970 makes optimum and compatable or better usage of either A-19 or A-21 fixture a moot point in not having a good option for a replacement lamp for the fixture. This is unless going with say a 100A21/CL/KR/RS Aero-Tech #ULA-98 with 20,000 hour lamp life (assuming still made - think it is), in being fairly cheap for upgrade and will last a long time, but to be sure less output.
Not mentioned on the scope and scale beyond replacing whips is lamp socket condition and internal wiring. This much less dependant on fixture, re-porcelain enamelling the reflector coatings (very messy if the case - but can be done.)
In such work, all lamp sockets wil have to come out and be re-surfaced and coated following protocols I presented over the years especially with the P-28s lamp socket as similar. This to get non corroded lamp contact surface area. Next the huge problem is mostly found is that the asbestos wiring will have been soldered in conductor to the lamp socket. So while the asbestos wiring between lamp sockets is within program to remove in cutting so as to remove it, you are still left with wiring that a propane torch will have to be used to carefully remove the also lead based solder from the terminals to the lamp sockets most often wiring is attached to.
One could replace all lamp sockets and even add lamp extenders if a A-21 type fixture, but this it dependant on the type of lamp socket in use and if still available on the market.
I don't collect strip or Cyc's or index lights for my museum. They just take up too much space. (Not even those purged from inventory - the Altman R-7s , MR-16 or even MR-11 based.) A shame, but the industry is LED.
The man/hours it takes per fixture to restore them also even if donated time, is also too much at this point. I have over the past about 25+ years restored dozens of strip lights - starting from the period in my learning from indeed wiring a set with THHN wire and vinyl butt splices no doubt, thru fully restored respectable and working.
Discontuned of the 100w A-19 halogen Osram lamp was a major factor in my stopping the saving of the fixtures. My arguement that such fixtures were viable and perhaps better once restored ended with the lamp. Too much work also on a strip, often they extended past my garage and or I had to break them apart.
They were something and well did.
A shame many theater students or store front theaters' don't even have them. Sorry, properly dispose of them. Anyone that says they can properly service call them back to factory spec. in safety has no idea of what they were saying or intending to do for what is needed.
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