Reasonable size of pipe for pipe pockets in drops and means of connecting same

[JLNorthGA]

I've used similar pipe for the top and bottom of various painted drops - basically 2" OD. Probably necessary for the top pipe, but not the bottom.

We're getting some muslin scenery drops from Rose Brands - with pipe pockets. I don't really think we need a heavy 2" OD pipe in the pocket. I've seen mega-quick splices and similar for connecting 2" pipe - but I haven't really seen much that is unobtrusive for smaller diameter pipes. I don't really want to use couplers unless y'all think that would work reasonably well.

So - which pipe to use? What to use for coupling the pipe together?

 

[DuckJordan]

ours are (I'm betting custom made) they are about an inch in OD, and then have a smaller 3/4" pipe welded to one end, they slip into one another to create a "seamless" pipe, now our drops have tie line for the pocket so this may not work in the solid pocket drops.

 

[MPowers]

The pipe we supply with bottom pocket soft goods is 3/4" galvanized pipe in roughly 10' lengths. Two methods of connecting: We supply either a slip fit or threaded. The slip fit is a 12" long 3/4" rod, 6" into one pipe and plug welded through a couple of holes drilled in the pipe. The exposed end is beveled and slips easily into the open end of the next pipe. The threaded method involves tapping 7/8" threads on the inside of each end of each pipe, no exposed threads on the outside. A 4" long piece of 7/8" all thread is then use to connect adjoining pipes as they are inserted into the drop.

 

[derekleffew]

... I don't really think we need a heavy 2" OD pipe in the pocket. ...

You are correct; you probably don't need or want 1.5" as bottom pipe. The only time I've seen that used is for wrap cyc s.
Use 1/2" galvanized, threaded both ends, and female-female coupler s. It's been "industry-standard" for years. If you can handle 21' lengths to minimize couplers, it's seldom a problem. Internal splines or threads is great, but more expensive and harder to source. Ideally, your drop s would have openings in the pipe pocket every 10' to allow access to the couplers.
.

 

[JLNorthGA]

The pipe we supply with bottom pocket soft goods is 3/4" galvanized pipe in roughly 10' lengths. Two methods of connecting: We supply either a slip fit or threaded. The slip fit is a 12" long 3/4" rod, 6" into one pipe and plug welded through a couple of holes drilled in the pipe. The exposed end is beveled and slips easily into the open end of the next pipe. The threaded method involves tapping 7/8" threads on the inside of each end of each pipe, no exposed threads on the outside. A 4" long piece of 7/8" all thread is then use to connect adjoining pipes as they are inserted into the drop.

Using all thread sounds like an interesting idea. I can easily get a several foot section from Home Despot or my local hardware store. I've got a tap and die set floating around in my basement somewhere. It would be as easy as couplers. My other thought was hardwood doweling. I can buy or make that also.

 

[venuetech]

I use rigid metal conduit (RMC) it is sold in 10' sections each with a coupler. I have both 1/2" and 3/4" ether size works well. i do use the 1/2" on lighter goods such as scrims.
the RMC coupler is much smaller than a standard pipe coupler so there is hardly any noticeable bump

 

[Robert]

Check out top rail post for chain link fence for your bottom pipe. Comes in 10' sections and has a nipple on one end to slip into the tube, probably 1 1/4" dia. One wrap of duct tape and its fine . Light and easy to cut. Available at lots of places and cheap.

 

[sk8rsdad]

I was thinking of trying PEX tubing weighted with water or sand. The water option would easier to fill and drain but comes with a risk of having a valve opened inadvertently.