Recommendation for Gobo projection

Cannon

Member
I need a gobo projector for monograms at Wedding Receptions. I need to project 50 feet, the area where the light will hit is only 8 feet wide, and the house lights will only be dimmed about 50%.

I'm a mobile DJ and this is beyond my area of expertise. Could you guys recommend a fixture that will do the job?

Thanks
 
I need a gobo projector for monograms at Wedding Receptions. I need to project 50 feet, the area where the light will hit is only 8 feet wide, and the house lights will only be dimmed about 50%.

I'm a mobile DJ and this is beyond my area of expertise. Could you guys recommend a fixture that will do the job?

Thanks

Hi Cannon, and welcome to the ControlBooth forum-

ou may want to consider the very rugged and tour friendly fixture built by ETC of Middleton Wisconsin. When fitted with the 19 degree lens tube, you should have an image area just under 10 feet in diameter. Custom gobos may be order at 80% image area to fill the projection surface rather nicely.

Have a look at the fixture's details here- Lighting solutions for Theatre, Film & Television Studios and Architectural spaces : ETC

As always, please ask any question you need answered BUT first do a thread SEARCH and have a quick peek at the WIKI and GLOSSARY.

All our best from Apollo,
 
Hi Cannon, and welcome to the ControlBooth forum-

ou may want to consider the very rugged and tour friendly fixture built by ETC of Middleton Wisconsin. When fitted with the 19 degree lens tube, you should have an image area just under 10 feet in diameter. Custom gobos may be order at 80% image area to fill the projection surface rather nicely.

Have a look at the fixture's details here- Lighting solutions for Theatre, Film & Television Studios and Architectural spaces : ETC

As always, please ask any question you need answered BUT first do a thread SEARCH and have a quick peek at the WIKI and GLOSSARY.

All our best from Apollo,

+1..with the HPL 575W, the 19 deg. S4 unit will fit you're needs nicely. Keep in mind the Source 4s have 2 pattern slots with different sizes (referred to as "A" and "B"). You can worry about that once you settle on a fixture, but it's important to keep in mind as you'll need to know that size when specifying gobo orders and so on.

On a side note, I'm assuming you're planning on using metal gobos as compared to glass?
 
Keep in mind the Source 4s have 2 pattern slots with different sizes (referred to as "A" and "B")

Actually, we refer to 100mm gobos as A size and 86/89mm gobos as B size. The pattern slots are often referred to as the 'static gobo slot' nearest the lamp and the 'Iris slot' which is furthest from the lamp due to the use of manual and DMX operated accessories (such as an iris or gobo rotator) in the larger of these openings.

as sdauditorium has stated- if purchasing gobos for this lighting fixture, be sure to ask for an A size gobo holder or B size gobo holder, depending upon which size you prefer.

(*Hint- wedding couple's names and corporate logos, etc, project much more cleanly when a B size is chosen. The smaller B size image is projected through the lens using less of the heavily curved portion- allowing a much more crisp projection. The A size is great for use with breakup patterns -clouds, foliage, etc, which are often projected slightly out of focus.)
 
Actually, we refer to 100mm gobos as A size and 86/89mm gobos as B size. The pattern slots are often referred to as the 'static gobo slot' nearest the lamp and the 'Iris slot' which is furthest from the lamp due to the use of manual and DMX operated accessories (such as an iris or gobo rotator) in the larger of these openings.

as sdauditorium has stated- if purchasing gobos for this lighting fixture, be sure to ask for an A size gobo holder or B size gobo holder, depending upon which size you prefer.

(*Hint- wedding couple's names and corporate logos, etc, project much more cleanly when a B size is chosen. The smaller B size image is projected through the lens using less of the heavily curved portion- allowing a much more crisp projection. The A size is great for use with breakup patterns -clouds, foliage, etc, which are often projected slightly out of focus.)

Thanks..I should have originally been more clear in my explanation.
 
Consider that for future events you may have an assortment of distances to project and need a variety of image sizes. Unless you want to purchase every fixed lense size to cover any possible circumstance, you may want to go with a zoomable fixture like the Source Four Jr. Zoom.

Also some of the New LED projectors look promising although I haven't yet found one that is both bright enough and features a zoomable option.
 
You should consider a Selecon Pacific, this will let you make your own transparencies on a laser printer and save lots of time and money over time.
 
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I am also a Mobile DJ based out of NJ. For my customized monograms, I use the Martin PR1. I like it because you can adjust the size and clarity, based on the distance. We have a few of them and they work perfectly.
-DjJay
 
If you want CHEAP, get slide projectors from Gov't surplus (replaced by video projectors) or EBay or freecycle and print logo onto transparency paper, cut and insert in slide mount. I use them to advertise our show sponsors on the side walls of my auditorium and they show up fine with house at full. You'll have to research the lens - the projectors I got came with several and it was no big deal to find the right one.
 
You guys are great with the recommendations! I've been busy looking into all of them. I'd love to use the martin PR1 but I don't think it would be enough at 50' especially at a daytime event if the room isn't very dark.

I've decided on the S4 15-30 Zoom. Thanks for the info on gobo holders!

Now I need a mounting adapter so I can mount it on top of our existing stands with a 1 3/8 inch vertical pipe. Can you guys help again?
 
...Now I need a mounting adapter so I can mount it on top of our existing stands with a 1 3/8 inch vertical pipe. Can you guys help again?
That's actually a tougher request. Most theatre techs are rather squeamish (usually rightly so) about using thin aluminum tubes and plastic fittings to mount heavy ERS units.

Here's an idea* (not sure if the spacing/sizing would work or not):
There are three 1/2" mounting holes on the top of the S4's yoke.
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Use the outer two holes and 3/8" bolts/nuts to attach the yoke to an Ultimate Support BMB-200k speaker bracket.
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Alternatively, one could spend hours looking through Mole Richardson's, Matthews, The Light Source, etc. hardware pages.


*Read at your own risk
 
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That's actually a tougher request. Most theatre techs are rather squeamish (usually rightly so) about using thin aluminum tubes and plastic fittings to mount heavy ERS units.




Here's an idea* (not sure if the spacing/sizing would work or not):
There are three 1/2" mounting holes on the top of the S4's yoke.
proxy.php

Use the outer two holes and 3/8" bolts/nuts to attach the yoke to an Ultimate Support BMB-200k speaker bracket.
proxy.php


Alternatively, one could spend hours looking through Mole Richardson's, Matthews, The Light Source, etc. hardware pages.


*Read at your own risk

Good Idea! I ordered a couple of the speaker mounts. That looks like a promising idea!

The stands (ADJ Crank-2) are steel pipe. Weight capacity: 70 lbs./32 kg.
I've seen S4s on tripods before. I can't imagine why there's not an adapter available.

I didn't know about "The Light Source". Thanks.
 
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That's actually a tougher request. Most theatre techs are rather squeamish (usually rightly so) about using thin aluminum tubes and plastic fittings to mount heavy ERS units.

Here's an idea* (not sure if the spacing/sizing would work or not):
There are three 1/2" mounting holes on the top of the S4's yoke.
proxy.php

Use the outer two holes and 3/8" bolts/nuts to attach the yoke to an Ultimate Support BMB-200k speaker bracket.
proxy.php


Alternatively, one could spend hours looking through Mole Richardson's, Matthews, The Light Source, etc. hardware pages.


*Read at your own risk

You can make your own with an appropriately sized pipe flange (with a set screw, not a thread), some 3/4" plywood, a jig saw and a drill. Thru bolt everything, and make it nice. Paint black.
 
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You can make your own with an appropriately sized pipe flange (with a set screw, not a thread), some 3/4" plywood, a jig saw and a drill. Thru bolt everything, and make it nice. Paint black.



Found this on another forum, I think I'll try it too.
"I use a piece of 6" cast iron pipe with a bolt in end cap. Drill a hole in the end cap, mount a bolt, lock washer and nut, then use a second washer and nut to mount the fixture's U bracket. I do this with a pair of Martin Imagescan fixtures and they aren't exactly lightweights!"
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