Removing Duck Tape off of lighting cables

[venuetech]

White gas in a well ventilated area, you can salvage the copper from the ashes. I also use a sharp axe to remove the tape goopy cable. (Best to unplug the cable before application of the axe/hatchet) But often this requires new connectors. Or some citrus based cleaners work very nicely, but involve manual labor.
In any case if a roll of duct tape appears on the job it should be quietly slipped into the trash and hidden there to prevent reappearance.

 

[Les]

Goof Off is made specifically for this,...

Goof Off is wonderful for removing adhesive. It melts it away like magic. My fear is that it would also damage rubber. I have seen it etch many types of plastics.

 

[pbansen]

Goof Off is wonderful for removing adhesive. It melts it away like magic. My fear is that it would also damage rubber. I have seen it etch many types of plastics.

In the interest of scientific inquiry, I tried some Goo Gone on some Carol SJOOW. No ill effects - the rubber sheathing cleaned up nicely and had none of the sticky feeling that would indicate a reaction between the solvent and the rubber.

 

[Les]

In the interest of scientific inquiry, I tried some Goo Gone on some Carol SJOOW. No ill effects - the rubber sheathing cleaned up nicely and had none of the sticky feeling that would indicate a reaction between the solvent and the rubber.

Are you planning on repeating the test with Goof-Off? I'm curious of the results. I don't think it would result in immediate melting of the cable, but I wouldn't be surprised if the rag is black afterwards.

 

[pbansen]

Are you planning on repeating the test with Goof-Off? I'm curious of the results. I don't think it would result in immediate melting of the cable, but I wouldn't be surprised if the rag is black afterwards.

If I can find some Goof-Off, I will. Electrical contact cleaner and Brakleen definitely removed anything on the cable, but the shop towel came away blacker than with Goo Gone and the outer surface of the cable had a slightly tacky feel, indicating to me that the solvent was acting on the sheathing, not just the crud on it.

 

[What Rigger?]

White gas in a well ventilated area, you can salvage the copper from the ashes. I also use a sharp axe to remove the tape goopy cable. (Best to unplug the cable before application of the axe/hatchet) But often this requires new connectors. Or some citrus based cleaners work very nicely, but involve manual labor.
In any case if a roll of duct tape appears on the job it should be quietly slipped into the trash and hidden there to prevent reappearance.

Is the application of white gas and an ignition source to the duct tape a suitable method of hiding the tape? If done in the presence of professionals? Can I substitute a Sawzall for the axe if I have to remove duct tape during a blackout? For the purposes of saving time, I mean.

 

[JohnD]

In regards to the treatment of the insidious Duck tape perpetrators, might I suggest something a little less extreme. Use the roll of tape and simply tape them to the wall, then turn out the lights and leave them.

 

[pbansen]

Is the application of white gas and an ignition source to the duct tape a suitable method of hiding the tape? If done in the presence of professionals? Can I substitute a Sawzall for the axe if I have to remove duct tape during a blackout? For the purposes of saving time, I mean.

Absolutely. Recommend using the Sawzall manually (i.e. not plugged in) so as to avoid ignition of the white gas by sparks from the brushes.

 

[RonHebbard]

In regards to the treatment of the insidious Duck tape perpetrators, might I suggest something a little less extreme. Use the roll of tape and simply tape them to the wall, then turn out the lights and leave them.

@JohnD You're being too kind. Careful or I'll sic @derekleffew on you.
Toodleoo!
Ron Hebbard.

 

[SamP]

Depending on how long the duct tape was on the caples you could use a household product called goo-gone, but that is only if it were on there for a few weeks. Beyond that I would recomend air drying the cables and using a pallette knife to get off the bad resedue depending on how thick the cable is.

 

[dflower]

The best stuff I have found for this is 3M General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner 08984. Leaves no residue, does not seem to hurt the cables. It is normally used by body shops to remove the adhesive that holds your car together...buy it at an automotive paint supplier...

 

[Chase P.]

I've always used WD-40, followed by Simple Green to remove the WD and (hopefully) reduce the chemical wear on the cable. Since I'm pretty vocal about people not messing up my cables, it's rare that I have to remove duct tape stickum.

The smell of Goof Off makes me think it's probably way worse for the environment (and me) than Goo Gone or WD-40. Whomever pointed out cooking oil or olive oil also has a great point! Also works on pine sap, if you're dragged into the scenic shop.

Also, WD-40 can be purchased in gallon jugs, letting you use a pump action spray bottle instead of a bunch of spray cans. It's also good for getting spray paint off my hands.

 

[Jason Hennigan]

I have always liked the approach of using duct tape to remove tape residue. Just take a fresh chunk of tape and stick it on and quickly peal it hopefully pealing the residue. Keep doing it till clean.

 

[RonHebbard]

I have always liked the approach of using duct tape to remove tape residue. Just take a fresh chunk of tape and stick it on and quickly peal it hopefully pealing the residue. Keep doing it till clean.

@Jason Hennigan Although this has been a time honored and successful technique for decades, I suspect you're missing the OP's initial query. The crux of the issue is: You learn to neatly gaff cables in place often with continuous lengths wherever you cross areas of OCCASIONAL traffic or when securely taping down the edges of carpets or rubber runners to minimize trip hazards and you soon learn the wisdom of stooping, grasping the tape, and standing on the cable(s) to hold them securely down while simultaneously lifting the tape (optimistically) in a continuous length; NOT that you're planning to retain it for future use but because you eventually learned the hard way that this methodology, although it adds time to your take-out, in the end keeps your cables more 'publicly presentable' for tomorrow morning's corporate breakfast gig and in generally better condition. Next some 'helpful know it all' comes along to "teach" you how to simply grab the cable from one end and tear it and the tape off the floor in one or two quick tugs (Somewhat akin to knocking hogs off their feet and lashing their legs.) AND THEN Mr. "Helpfull" grins and phuques off leaving you and your kin to spend the next couple of hours removing the tape WHICH IS NOW WRAPPED TOTALLY 360 degrees AROUND your cable with its edges fairly neatly sealed down. One layer of this creates enough of a challenge and it NEVER improves on its own with the passage of time. This is when you end up investing hours of your time attempting to remove the tape without inflicting further insults upon its outer jacket and / or internal foil shields and paired conductors. As much as I comprehend the method and intentions of your post, there's no way in Hades it stands a ghost of a chance at removing even one layer of fully wrapped gaff tape let alone multiple layers compounded by the inequities suffered by some cables forced to spend their 'working lives' in the darkened corners of some seedy bars and strip clubs in the service of many 'weekend warriors'.
On behalf of long suffering gaffed cables and especially cables owned or utilized by the users of tapes best suited to sealing air ducts.
@TimMc Comments?
Toodleoo!
Ron Hebbard.

 

[Jason Hennigan]

On behalf of long suffering gaffed cables and especially cables owned or utilized by the users of tapes best suited to sealing air ducts.
@TimMc Comments?
Toodleoo!
Ron Hebbard.

I disagree with nothing, but I think you missed my point. I would kill anyone that decided to pull the cable and the tape at the same time. My method is for removing the final goo from the cable and does a really good job at that. If your cable is wrapped complexly with tape you will have to remove that first.

 

[RonHebbard]

I disagree with nothing, but I think you missed my point. I would KILL anyone that decided to pull the cable and the tape at the same time. My method is for removing the final goo from the cable and does a really good job at that. If your cable is wrapped completely with tape you will have to remove that first.

@Jason Hennigan Thanks for your clarification; now, as to killing folks who pull up cables with gaff, or worse, tape intact, PLEASE ensure they suffer a slow and excruciatingly painful process prior to eventually succumbing.
Toodleoo!
Ron Hebbard.

 

[Aaron Clarke]

by the users of tapes best suited to sealing air ducts.

Digressing out of the lighting realm but any HVAC tech would tell you Duct tape is the last thing to be used on air ducts as well despite it's name.

Frankly I have never found a use for duct tape that would be better done by another type of tape. That doesn't mean I don't use it at home once in a while but I still think the roll I have I bought 5 years ago and is still half there.

 

[Jay Ashworth]

I would *bill* whomever was that stupid for the cables, at depreciated retail -- taking it out of their paycheck if necessary.

And for the record, if the tape's got onto itself, even gaff tape's a massive pain to get off.

 

[Van]

Digressing out of the lighting realm but any HVAC tech would tell you Duct tape is the last thing to be used on air ducts as well despite it's name.

Frankly I have never found a use for duct tape that would be better done by another type of tape. That doesn't mean I don't use it at home once in a while but I still think the roll I have I bought 5 years ago and is still half there.

You OBVIOUSLY, have not watched enough "Red Green Show" reruns.

 

[TimMc]

@Jason Hennigan Although this has been a time honored and successful technique for decades, I suspect you're missing the OP's initial query. The crux of the issue is: You learn to neatly gaff cables in place often with continuous lengths wherever you cross areas of OCCASIONAL traffic or when securely taping down the edges of carpets or rubber runners to minimize trip hazards and you soon learn the wisdom of stooping, grasping the tape, and standing on the cable(s) to hold them securely down while simultaneously lifting the tape (optimistically) in a continuous length; NOT that you're planning to retain it for future use but because you eventually learned the hard way that this methodology, although it adds time to your take-out, in the end keeps your cables more 'publicly presentable' for tomorrow morning's corporate breakfast gig and in generally better condition. Next some 'helpful know it all' comes along to "teach" you how to simply grab the cable from one end and tear it and the tape off the floor in one or two quick tugs (Somewhat akin to knocking hogs off their feet and lashing their legs.) AND THEN Mr. "Helpfull" grins and phuques off leaving you and your kin to spend the next couple of hours removing the tape WHICH IS NOW WRAPPED TOTALLY 360 degrees AROUND your cable with its edges fairly neatly sealed down. One layer of this creates enough of a challenge and it NEVER improves on its own with the passage of time. This is when you end up investing hours of your time attempting to remove the tape without inflicting further insults upon its outer jacket and / or internal foil shields and paired conductors. As much as I comprehend the method and intentions of your post, there's no way in Hades it stands a ghost of a chance at removing even one layer of fully wrapped gaff tape let alone multiple layers compounded by the inequities suffered by some cables forced to spend their 'working lives' in the darkened corners of some seedy bars and strip clubs in the service of many 'weekend warriors'.
On behalf of long suffering gaffed cables and especially cables owned or utilized by the users of tapes best suited to sealing air ducts.
@TimMc Comments?
Toodleoo!
Ron Hebbard.

Other than agreement, Ron?

Cleaning dried, crusty adhesive residue is the most difficult of the tasks and at that point we tend to relegate those cables to "dancer gigs" where the producer/school rents the gear, sets it up & operates, and brings it all back. These are the clients where the dancers (ballet, tap, formally trained.. not strippers/brass pole dancers) wind the cords over their elbows, too...

The adhesive vs adhesive method @Jason Hennigan mentions works *depending* on the exact adhesive, how fresh/dry it is, the cable jacket chemistry and probably some other criteria I'm not aware of.

I've used WD40, kerosene, rapeseed oil (at your local grocer as "canola oil"), Goo Gone and perhaps employed a Cable Whisperer and psychic adviser, too... No single thing works particularly well.

The cables are, as you say, phuqued . Not much incentive to spend staff time or $$ to clean them up only to have the same thing happen again. Into the bin with the other dancer gig cables.

I will now invoke both politics and religion - the over-under wrap/rolling of cables. We use it in our shop, exclusively. Between that and not using "duct tape" we have cables that lie flat and straight and look clean - that are 35+ years old. I will now don my Nomex® suit for the flames sure to come...