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Don't understand why they didn't use a d-ring...
 
Don't understand why they didn't use a d-ring...
I'm just a messenger here - don't kill me. :) It does seem like there could be better choices. My "standard" design is for pits with platforms (pit fillers) and uses a shelf angle around the perimeter to support he decks on short legs that don't need bracing - thus the pit is clear and install/removal requires less parts - and then have holes punched or drilled in the shelf angle for the clips. And I use nets only when I can't get a tensioned wire grid in the project - which uses similar shelf angles for support and pit filler sits on the twg framing.

I have not grown comfortable to pits with lifts and nets - just seems like a disaster waiting to happen - but probably a good solution.

BTW if you have a employees - like a schools building people - remove and install a pit filler, they are required by OSHA to be protected against falls. The net or twg probably will provide that. Was at a new-build project where one was being installed first time. Talked about this with rigging contractor. He mentioned someone on his companies crew had been injured a week or so previously while installing a pit filler with the typical scaffold support to the floor.
 
War story: An old 1920s-era concert hall I used to work at had (still has) a brutal pit filler system. Removal involved two people in the pit standing on chairs to pop a deck section up, two people up on deck to grab it, two more people below to catch the 4x4 iron posts that just become loose, and two more below to take a handoff of the deck piece and stack it against the wall. Once everything was down you had to re-fit the decks as the floor of the pit to cover all the cup receivers of the posts. I know of at least one major injury which required hernia surgery.
 
A pit filler is basically scenery and too often architects and engineers try to design scenery, and usually is not very technician friendly. The best I've found are bridging designs - no legs - and smaller, honeycomb deck panels - like 2' x 8' or 32" x 8', not 4' x 8'. Couple that with a tensioned wiore grid, and its a small increase in initial cost but a great long term benefit.
 

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