Rigging a S4

dshriver

Member
I have pipes that run down each side of my hall. Its #40 1.5" steel pipe, in 8' lengths. Each pipe currently supports 4 instruments (some Pars some Lekos). In an effort to get a better angle I need to get an instrument out about 3' from my current pipes. Can I attach a 4' section of pipe with a Rota Lock or other 90 degree coupler and only support the pipe at one end? I only need to support the weight of one 14 degree S4 but the idea of hanging a pipe 90 degrees out from my current pipes and only supporting it from one end concerns me.

TIA

-d
 
I have pipes that run down each side of my hall. Its #40 1.5" steel pipe, in 8' lengths. Each pipe currently supports 4 instruments (some Pars some Lekos). In an effort to get a better angle I need to get an instrument out about 3' from my current pipes. Can I attach a 4' section of pipe with a Rota Lock or other 90 degree coupler and only support the pipe at one end? I only need to support the weight of one 14 degree S4 but the idea of hanging a pipe 90 degrees out from my current pipes and only supporting it from one end concerns me.

TIA

-d

Hello!

Thoughts:
18" - 24" boom arms, normal cast clamps, spigots replaced by a length of 1/2" schedule 40, one or two boom tee's were the accepted norm for decades; I often worried that the side stress on the cast clamp was the weak point.
You saw them routinely supporting Altman 360’s and 360Q’s over the heads of Broadway patrons for years; sometimes one up and one down all the way out to the end, sometimes one down at the end and a second down closer to the vertical.

You're looking to go 4' out using 1-1/2 schedule 40, there are many clamps available far better than cast.
You could consider using 1-1/4" schedule 40, there are several clamps available to mate 1-1/4” to 1-1/2” as well.

You might consider including a forged flanged eye bolt drilled through the free end of your arm with chain and a turnbuckle running up diagonally to a higher point on your vertical pipe. Use a clamp on your vertical and choke your chain around the vertical above the clamp. The clamp's only purpose would be to prevent the chain from sliding down the vertical. Chain angled above, fixtures dangled below avoiding the chain.

As others have pointed out, much depends upon how your verticals are secured to your walls; 1" #8 plastic anchors into drywall would not be the best option. ;^)

Kee, as in KeeKlamps, have a very economical option that's basically a horseshoe with a hole through it at 90 degrees secured with a single Allen head hollow set screw. Simple, affordable, unbelievably solid for what they are. Alvin Clamps make clones of pretty much everything Kee offers.

As I wrote back at the beginning: Thoughts, only thoughts.

Toodleoo!
Ron Hebbard
 
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Here is an image of one of the pipes. I want to get an instrument straight out from the pipe. It would be parallel to the ground, making a 90 degree angle from the current pipe. It would let me get the instrument farthest from the stage out from the wall farther, giving me a better angle for that light.

The current pipe is welded to the bracket which is lagged into the douglas fir timbers.
 

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Here is an image of one of the pipes. I want to get an instrument straight out from the pipe. It would be parallel to the ground, making a 90 degree angle from the current pipe. It would let me get the instrument farthest from the stage out from the wall farther, giving me a better angle for that light.

The current pipe is welded to the bracket which is lagged into the douglas fir timbers.


Thanks for posting the photo's. I, like several others, was envisioning vertical pipes at various locations on your side walls.

Toodleoo!
Ron Hebbard
 
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Thanks for posting the photo's. I, like several others, was envisioning vertical pipes at various locations on your side walls.

Toodleoo!
Ron Hebbard


I'm not describing this well. So lets try this pic and see if it makes sense.img.JPG
 

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The last Pix tells the whole story, now we know what the problem is why you want to hang away from the existing pipe.

My first reaction to the unit at the end of a 4' lever arm is that you are adding about 70-80 ft/lbs of torque trying to pull the top bolt of the bracket out of the beam. Are the brackets lag bolted to the beam or do the bolts run all the way through? If it is a lag bolt, I would advise against putting the arm out. Unless you can support the end from above. Will they allow you to attach anything to those beams? The double beams appear to have a large gap between them. If this is so, an anchor bracket/plate/angle could be lagged in to the top of the beam, (the lag in this position carries only a small percentage of the load) and provide a rigging point to drop a cable down to the end of the pipe. Better yet, run a pipe out at each end of the wall pipe, support them from above and then attach a third pipe parallel the the one on the wall and you have an additional pipe closer to where you want it. The pipes to the wall will provide rigidity to the set up and help absorb the lateral loading that the slanted beams impose on the weight bearing brackets. Last but not least, you would be adding very little additional load to the original brackets. Oh, and of course, get a rigger to do the install. If you're in Rockport, Ma, (Boy, way up/out there, are you on Sandy bay?) Give Limelight a call. Stage Lighting & Rigging Systems for Theatre, Film/Video, Studio & Display: Limelight Productions
 
I agree with others you don't want to put a right arm or other extension hanging off that pipe. The only thing I can think is to either top hang or bottom hang your S4 then throw a Beam Bender on it. You'll get about 18" of extension from the pipe.

Beam Bender
 
I think you could take a longer pipe and cantilever it on top of the timber. A tang could be welded on the end to lag into the other fir timber.
 

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