rigging maintenance

[brin831]

so few questions here:

1. shackles, steel, wire rope, motors, hooks, chain, etc. paint or not?
2. surface rust ... ie outside show covered or not stuff gets wet how do you remove?
3. if you do either of the two when ... during regular inspection or after each use/tour etc?

I'll be interested in the answers then share what we do.

thanks

 

[What Rigger?]

I'd be willing to bet that all, or almost all, of your questions can be answered by the manufacturer of the gear in question.

I'm not sure what we gain by supplying answers to you and then waiting for you to reciprocate.

 

[porkchop]

Read the manual and/or consult the manufacture first and foremost, but here are some answer based on what I have experienced in the field.

1. shackles, steel, wire rope, motors, hooks, chain, etc. paint or not?

Motor bodies can usually be painted without issue provided you are careful not to obscure any labels. For everything else paint if you want for identification (red eyes for 5' steel, white eyes for 10' steel, ect...), but any painting done for aesthetic reasons will be damaged way too rapidly to make it worthwhile.​

2. surface rust ... ie outside show covered or not stuff gets wet how do you remove?

Generally I would take anything with rust out of service immediately and mark it to be destroyed. If for some reason I had to keep it is service TEMPORARILY while I wait for a replacement then if a light rub with scotch bright or steel wool removes the rust I would consider using the part.
​

3. if you do either of the two when ... during regular inspection or after each use/tour etc?

Painting motors usually done in the shop as a part of annual maintenance and load testing. Identification paint on steel might be redone once or twice a tour depending on how rapidly the paint is flaking off. As far as rust goes, it's something that every rigger on every call should keep an eye out for and bring up if they see it. If rust was found I would only try to remove it if I had no option to replace it (Like if I was halfway through a Brazilian tour where local equipment can't be trusted and imports are almost impossible). Money shouldn't be a concern when it comes to rust. Rigging components are cheap, lives aren't.​

 

[BillConnerFASTC]

Painting some load bearing materials can mask stress fractures. I'm always slightly suspicious of fresh paint jobs on some rigging hardware you mention.

 

[brin831]

I'd be willing to bet that all, or almost all, of your questions can be answered by the manufacturer of the gear in question.

I'm not sure what we gain by supplying answers to you and then waiting for you to reciprocate.

was merely curious and I didn't want this to end up a situation where everyone one was pulling out their "tape measures"

nor did I want to start a converaation or judgement of our current practices ... as stated I'll share for general knowledge, like I would hope everyone here could do.

motors are not painted except in annual inspection and then rarely for it is simply an aesthetic thing.

chain is tumbled in a cement mixer full of walnut crumbles ... probably won't read that in a manual anywhere but while going through cm motor class hosted at our facility with a well known and respected truss, roof, and rigging, manufacturer based out of va. present who was sending their employees to train it was diacussed with CM and recommended as a great cleaning technique before link by link inspection then cleaning and oiled.

as to the rust comment it is in regards to purely cosmetic ... ie you can remove by hand etc what would typically occur after doing a week long outdoor festival ... a true unavoidable situation ... these also tumbled and then repainted for color code ...

the benefit of the walnuts is they act as a buffer for the metal parts so as to not bang all around ... but it also is able to get in all the nooks and remove the old paint or surface rust ... I'll post some before and after and I think you would be amazed.

 

[RickR]

Tumbling with sand is an ancient cleaning method. Walnut shells at least have a trace of oil and are far gentler.

 

[TimMc]

Tumbling with sand is an ancient cleaning method. Walnut shells at least have a trace of oil and are far gentler.

Cleaning hoist chains with sand tumbling will likely void your hoist warranty. Crushed walnut shells is the material approved by Columbus-McKinnon.

CM Tech #17C02417

 

[avkid]

If a good soak in Simple Green doesn't get it done you have problems.

 

[TimMc]

Cleaning hoist chains with sand tumbling will likely void your hoist warranty. Crushed walnut shells is the material approved by Columbus-McKinnon.

CM Tech #17C02417

I also forgot to say that sand or similar minerals can crack the case hardening of the chain, which will lead to premature failure. There's a lot of metallurgy at play here, but the integrity of the case hardening is essential.

 

[brin831]

so as promised ... on of the worst ones had prolly gone 6 months since last painting

not the same one but an example of after tumbling and then light repaint ... notice it's not totally covered just touched up because as we have all said it's just for identification ... although it will cut down on the immediate surface rust ... I'll put up a chain later ...

don't know about simple green but #walnutswork

20170926_185352

• brin831
• Sep 26, 2017

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• brin831
• Sep 26, 2017

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• brin831
• Sep 26, 2017

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• brin831
• Sep 26, 2017

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• brin831
• Sep 26, 2017

 

[JacobRothermel]

so few questions here:

1. shackles, steel, wire rope, motors, hooks, chain, etc. paint or not?
2. surface rust ... ie outside show covered or not stuff gets wet how do you remove?
3. if you do either of the two when ... during regular inspection or after each use/tour etc?

I'll be interested in the answers then share what we do.

thanks

I'd echo just about everybody else here (aside from the walnut idea...haven't tried that before...). But, if it helps anyone else:

1) Paint: I paint NOTHING that doesn't come powder-coated already from the manufacturer. Overkill? Maybe. I'm not taking a chance that, as has been mentioned above, any paint job I do might mask stress fractures, previous rust spots, or etc. that would otherwise make it unsafe to use. If I HAVE to color code something (like wire rope slings, etc.) I use E-tape or friction tape on some part that's non-contacting in a load situation.

2) Rust: For me, though, rust is a devil not to be trusted. I don't do a lot of outdoor gigs, however, so I can't really speak to that. But if I find rust that I can't rub off with my fingers (or MAYBE a light wipe with some simple green on non-lubricated parts), I take it out of service and either a) replace it permanently, or b) inspect it closer back at the shop to see if it's eroded enough to become a danger later on. If I even suspect that it is, I take it out of service for any over-head or load-bearing functions (I might then paint it and, say, use it as a bike lock, etc....). If i was doing a lot of rigging outside, I'd either use stainless steel parts or talk to manufacturers and get there advice.

3) Inspection: Before every use. Period. Obviously. If something doesn't look right, it's taken out of service until we can determine if it's safe to use. If we suspect it's not, we don't put it back in service. Anything taken out of service on suspicion is tagged, anything determined to be unsafe (like frayed cable, etc.) is cut right there.

jake

 

[Van]

...
3) Inspection: Before every use. Period. Obviously. If something doesn't look right, it's taken out of service until we can determine if it's safe to use. If we suspect it's not, we don't put it back in service. Anything taken out of service on suspicion is tagged, anything determined to be unsafe (like frayed cable, etc.) is cut right there.

jake

And if you paint it you cannot inspect it. "I know not how how other may vote but as for me; give me raw steel or give me nothing." <that was Nathan Hale I think...>