Stagecraft debated the various methods for safetying the rope/arbor
a few months ago. Good debate went on between the “Line
Lok”, twisting and the stopper knot/prusik knot. Stage
Rigging handbook says 4 to 5 twists on the rope and never to rely upon it to hold an un-balanced load. Stagecraft also If I remember right had something said about the damage to the rope and equipment if the rope was too tight at the start. I always prefered the prusik knot method given a strong lock rail
or other steel to tie off to. I would be using ½" spectrum dracon braided rope on 3/4" Stage
Set X. Back to Stage
Rigging Handbook, the synthetic rope allows for a tighter circle around the lineset
for better grip
. At least better grip
for all but EZ-Trim linesets. I would not trust it for that rope. The book
also mentions using this method alleviates stress on the tension block
from the twisting. I have also seen Wolf’s websling used, both a repelling websling and the more rough commercial grade of 1" websling in a prusik. I still like rope for doing this better, I like the friction of rope more than slings, plus the easier bending in all directions.
I prefer it also because there is little to no chance of a runaway
or getting beamed in the head by the bar - I used to use 3/4" sch. 40, much less if you use it to control decent, you don’t have to get it out of the way before the twisted rope gets hit by the carriage. Also the knot will allow you to slip it down in acting like a safety
for out of balance loads. That’s what I used to use. This method also allows you to check the balance without untying it.
Lok or “Uncle Buddy” believe it or not is not sold by Sapsis Rigging. Three is a decent drawing of it in the book
of how to construct one as well as a sample of a commercial version of it, and I think also some new designs and sources for it presented on Stagecraft. What was it 9 months ago. Uncle Buddy might be a search phrase of use. I like the idea of them because they allow you to lower the line
with friction, but if you need to slow it down you just raise the lever some or hook it’s lower half. Good idea up until the arbor
gets too low for it’s use. That say 4' drop
and tensioner unless you get a ladder to unload weights before hand
can do a lot of damage.
might be a final solution for locking off the lineset
In general, I differ from Wolf in opinion of the advantages of tying off verses twisting. A knot around a rope will be more distributed than a rope lock’s pressure or cutting into it. If your rope locks don’t cut into the hand line
than a prusik won’t either. On the other hand
, twisting the rope can be bad for it in addition to the tensioner and other rigging parts. The tensioner is still taking the main load plus the tension load while with rope tied off to a pre-arranged to be safe place and not always the lock rail
, you get a lot less load on the tensioner pully and a lot less problems with slack in the line
after you max out the tensioner due to the twisting. In other words, unless you like a lot of play
in your lineset
, you will have to keep re-adjusting it with the twisting.
On dogging the line
off, I tend to agree that it’s easier to twist a pipe around it than dog it off using rope to do the same thing as the pipe given this is what you mean. Not sure I have ever seen this method used. I have also never seen tie line
used anywhere around a fly system