Rope locks/cleats/"bunny ears" for pick-lines at the grid: Who has a good design?

jkrickus

Member
I have always known this device as "rabbit ears". You send a pick line through the base of the rabbit ears and attach your load, pull it up to trim, and lock it off by cleeting the rope around the "ears" (some designs incorporate a brake). I need to build 40 of these. I am looking for designs that have worked well. I don't want to reinvent the wheel.
 
Last edited:
re: Rope locks/cleats/"bunny ears" for pick-lines at the grid: Who has a good design?

Are you referring to a cleat like you'd see on a boat dock?. If so, they're easily available at any boating store.
 
re: Rope locks/cleats/"bunny ears" for pick-lines at the grid: Who has a good design?

It is similar to a cleat in purpose, but it allows the rope puller to stand on the grid directly over the load, pull the rope through the base of the unit and cleat off the rope when trim is reached.
 
re: Rope locks/cleats/

"Bunny ears" is perhaps better nomenclature, so as not to be confused with
proxy.php

"rabbit ears."

See here. Although no plans, many pictures and descriptions.
proxy.php


Note that the original design is attributed to Delbert Hall, who was mentioned in this thread: http://www.controlbooth.com/forums/special-f-x/20713-d2-flying-effects-based-out-tennessee.html.

A caveat is likely in order:
While this appears to be a deceptively simple device, ALL entertainment rigging is inherently dangerous and should not be undertaken by those unfamiliar or inexperienced. When in doubt, always consult a qualified professional in person.
 
Last edited:
re: Rope locks/cleats/"bunny ears" for pick-lines at the grid: Who has a good design?

That is an awesome device, beautiful in its deceptive simplicity. This would be a fun device to model in CAD...and build in real life.
 
I have a CAD drawing and photos of what you want. I need to put them online and then post the link. I will do so withing the next 24 hours.

-Delbert
 
I think I actually like Dave Vick's (the pictures on SmugMug) version better. Do you see any problems with using a good quality 3/4" plywood rather than 2x6 for the sides, Delbert ?
proxy.php

Once trim is achieved and the camming ear is closed tightly onto the spotline, several turns are cast onto the ears, locking the ears closed and keeping tension on the jaws. The more downward tension is applied to the spotline, the tighter it pulls a
proxy.php

Rabbit Ears

For those .mcd and .dwg challenged, attached is the drawing above in .pdf format.
View attachment rabbit_ears.pdf
 
Last edited:
Dave's Rabbit ears look great and I see no problem using 3/4" ply instead of 2x6s. We ones I saw were used in TX were made of 2x6s so that is how I make mine. The plywood needs to be cabinet makers 7 layer plywood, not just crappy construction plywood. One nice thing about the 2x6s is that it lets you inset all of the bolts so nothing is sticking out to catch on anything.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back