Saving old tools

ship

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So I finally replaced my Dad’s coping saw - just wasn’t retaining tension sufficient to be useful in cutting with in instead mostly prefering the power tool option. (Note on either or even a hack saw, remove the router bit after use, and at least loosen up the coping saw blade in it not having later problems with tension in the case of the hand saws or removal from the routers after use in doing so. Removing the router bits has helped a lot after use in usability as with oiling them up and cleaning tem.)

Still have the Wilton bench vise and use it daily - though it’s top in re-grinding flat is constantly becoming more and more flat and it’s just slightly out of square. Only slightly though and Wilton says “what” when I give them the part numbers in attempting to replace the jaws or pipe clamps. Initially it was the best vise and anvil at work, than I took it home as I do a lot of work there. To replace it both also from Wilton but modern, a 65# anvil and $650.00 bench vise both in constant use at work as with the arbor press. both really expensive but good investments. Nothing straightens a yoke better than the expensive bench vise, or nothing pounds a moving light thingie better than the anvil or the arbor press - especially necessary for Cheseboroughs.

Amongst really very few other tools that I did inherit, - a 18" monkey wrench that in searching antique shops for a duplicate of and buying some smaller versions, never found one better for use on in the field on Soco plug repair amongst very few other things from the 50's or earlier I inherited. On the bench - a few quality bench vises to hold the S.Steel panel mount outlets used to un-screw Soco plugs for repair, but for in-the field use... nothing better than the 18" old style monkey wrench to hold that Soco panel mount. This much less work as well on big conduit fittings or bolts. Just don’t make them how they used to.

This monkey wrench and Grandpa’s meat/cheese cutting knife of German Cuttery that I use for cutting foam at work and both exactly match up to tools used on the classic Three Stooges at times. Think of the “microfilm watermelon and sausage short in the cargo ship for reference to the knife.” Very good knife for cutting foam, and the joke never fails of giving a wide girth of me when they see me going from place to place with the knife. Does a better job than an electric turkey carver even in cutting foam.

Got Dad’s wood plane also and it’s taken some time to both figure out how to sharpen and figure how to properly use it. Since than I added to this stock of planes some in not a collection but usefule and another concept to collect in the future. Molding planes and lots of other types that are just plane cool. Mostly on the planes, properly aligning them that's difficult. Once figured out how to make them work, and they are sharp... beautiful in cut and ease.

Anyway, I didn’t inherit any old school files from my dad or GrandPa (at least nothing major in a few but none more than minor ones for steel).... Have Grandpa’s classic 1930's or older hand saw mounted above a door though. Recently, I had a chance to buy cheap some old school files at an antique shop and got them even if rusting some fairly cheap. Just don’t sell old school files these days - at least from the home center. Hmm, large rough cut files in getter it done.

I cleaned them up some with a Dremmel wire wheel and coated them with Tri-Flow. Probably a mistake in Tri-Flow as opposed to WD-40 or something else. Now the files in attempting to use tonight are too slippery or dull. Could be either or both.

Can remove the oil from the files but also think they are dull. Any way to sharpen - not just clean but sharpen an antique file or are they now things to mount on the wall along with Grandpa’s saw - which could be used but I don’t need? This verses the planes that after some sharpening and study, are useful? Remove the oil and file the heck out of them on some scrap oak, useless or other method to sharpen them again? Really think they are dull. Do I even attempt to somehow sharpen them?
 
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Ah ship, how'd you know the only thing I enjoy almost as much as old lighting instruments is old tools?

I agree, those good old monkey wrenches can't be beat. Granted, they don't have as many applications as they used to, but in many a "modern" tool box, there always seems to be at least one monkey wrench, for use when nothing else will do. I haven't seen any c-wrench that has jaws that can open up to 4" and yet can still fit in my back pocket.

As for files, I have no idea if they can be sharped. I do know that some antique planes can commands incredibly high prices when desired by some of the more picky woodworkers.
 
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Tech people that learn their trade often develop a healthy respect of the classics, much less strive to master them in use so as to master their field. Grab the proper hand saw - as opposed to power tool and change it's blad to match what's cut, and get the extension cord... sometimes easier to hand tool it.

Hmm, my fears also on the files. Not like you can wire wheel away the rust or say use a file to sharpen them. I should have probably used them hard first before applying the oil in perhaps cleaning them up better. Hopefully once I get the oil removed, than some experimentation with oak and aluminum, perhaps even steel. If the file is toast, than rough steel won't hurt it but might help.

Thinking initially of taking the files to the trucking dpt. at the shop. I'm sure they have baths or something that could both remove the oil and refresh the files with.

On the planes... I'm bairly good at the sharpening problem (abrasive silicone fiber wheel and tool steel grinder set up for such things,) more about the aligning problem in getting it just right. Once I get it set right though... better than any number of grits of sading can do in work and faster. See lots of them fairly inexpensive at antiques shops including molding planes that I'm tempted with constantly. For hand tools... I'm all about Klien above anythining else. Thus I gloss over hand tools mostly.
 
Nothing beats working with a good block plane or jack plane. Adjustment of the blade is an artform itself. In my other life I was a custom trim carpenter and cabinet builder, so I am well versed in a good plane.
 

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