An excellent suggestion.Consider putting the tool bays on the bottom and the screw bins on the top. ...
I don't think 1/2" ply, even if using Baltic Birch, has the strength and rigidity for what you want, not to mention the weak butt joints. I'd use 3/4" instead of the 1/2". 1/4" ply is fine for partitions. You might consider not gluing them in the grooves to allow for adjustability. ("Dado'ed groove" is redundant/contradictory. According to most wood butchers, a dado is a channel against the grain, and a groove is with the grain.)
Sabre saw blades?
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Yes, it's true, I am not the most competent with wood. However, I'm learning.
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Are you sure about the 3/4" Ply? This unit really is not that big, and given the price difference in materials.
Yes, I'm sure. Ever made a butt joint with 1/2" ply? How strong was it? As to the price difference in materials, even 1/2" AC ply is garbage, so I'd use 3/4" shop grade maple veneer plywood, available here for about $45 a 4x8 sheet (from a hardwoods supplier, not a big box store). The phrases "This unit really is not that big," and "given the price difference in materials" prove my point. If the unit is not that big, the price difference in materials is immaterial [another pun!] To quote an old theatre saying: There's never enough money to do it right, but always enough to do it over. Do it right or don't do it! Why waste the labor on something that's going to fall apart? Being on wheels, this unit is going to be subjected to much abuse....Are you sure about the 3/4" Ply? This unit really is not that big, and given the price difference in materials.
The grooves are only for the 1/4" partitions. He has made no provisions for reinforcing the carcass joints.I think, if it's AC or BC 1/2" should be fine, provided the dado's are glued and screwed...
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