Source4 C-Clamp for Technobeam?

Re: soucce 4 leko C clamp for technobeam?

First of all ETC C-clamps are not load rated. They do make load rated C-clamps. I believe they are made by altman. This is what i use on my moving lights. There are also some other manufactuers that make load rated clamps. I my really heavy moving lights I use these http://www.alistage.co.uk/aliscaff_couplers_and_fittings_coupler_fittings.shtml There are companys here in the us that make them. I also like to use omega clamps, they in my opinion are the best clamp made. You put the light against the truss and they automaticly hold the fixture onto the truss so you can then tighten it down. Omega clamps are the industry standard in the touring industry because they are fast, and you dont spend time struggling trying to flip down the top of the half coupler and sliding the bolt into the top of it. Buts its all based on how much you want to spend. Also dont forget your safety cables.
 
Conventionals=C-Clamp=Iron Pipe OR [Conventionals=C-Clamp + Truss Protector=Aluminum Tube/truss].
I think this is the best (sorry ETC. ETC suggests its clamps are to be used ONLY on Source4 ERS/PARs/PARnels. What to they provide with the Revolution™?)

Movers[even small moving-mirror units] equals "Half-Couplers" equals Aluminum Tube/truss.
I think this is the best, but these are okay, as well as others.
 
Last edited:
Conventionals=C-Clamp=Iron Pipe OR [Conventionals=C-Clamp + Truss Protector=Aluminum Tube/truss].
I think this is the best (sorry ETC. ETC suggests its clamps are to be used ONLY on Source4 ERS/PARs/PARnels. What to they provide with the Revolution™?)

Movers[even small moving-mirror units] equals "Half-Couplers" equals Aluminum Tube/truss.
I think this is the best, but these are okay, as well as others.

I love Mega-Claws. Very easy, very safe. Your movers are relatively secure before you even tighten them. Trying to use Mega-Coupler with a heavy moving light, or really anything, is a pain. Techno beams are light, I'd use a mega-clamp (which I am also fond of) before I used a coupler.
 
Conventionals=C-Clamp=Iron Pipe OR [Conventionals=C-Clamp + Truss Protector=Aluminum Tube/truss].
I think this is the best (sorry ETC. ETC suggests its clamps are to be used ONLY on Source4 ERS/PARs/PARnels. What to they provide with the Revolution™?)

Movers[even small moving-mirror units] equals "Half-Couplers" equals Aluminum Tube/truss.
I think this is the best, but these are okay, as well as others.

Where's the panlock, Derek?!
 
Where's the panlock, Derek?!
That's one of the best features, one doesn't have to fiddle with, or break off, any Jesus nut, or adjust one's wrench. The springy, cupped washer holds the pan in place!
 
Its not that springy. For most focuses you should be able to leave it somewhere between tight and loose and be able to forcible move it. When you have an odd focuse, a really tight shot or a light that will be smacked around allot you can crank down on the yolk bolt and it will lock up nice and tight. The F-bolt will often find a grove limiting the range of pan but with this style that is not an issue.
 
Its not that springy. For most focuses you should be able to leave it somewhere between tight and loose and be able to forcible move it. When you have an odd focuse, a really tight shot or a light that will be smacked around allot you can crank down on the yolk bolt and it will lock up nice and tight. The F-bolt will often find a grove limiting the range of pan but with this style that is not an issue.

Ah, I wish I'd known this on my focus (or had a lightspeed wrench at the time) as I accidentally smashed up my left ring finger panning an instrument with a mega-clamp, under the nail bleeding, it looks funny now. :lol:
 
From the cutsheet:
The Belleville spring washer has 600# of spring load when compressed. This spring pressure keeps the fixture from drifting after making small pan adjustments to the light fixture. Just grab the fixture by the top of the yoke and twist to pan the fixture. Usually, you will not need to pull out your wrench to tighten the pan bolt, the fixture will stay securely held.
 
From the cutsheet:
The Belleville spring washer has 600# of spring load when compressed. This spring pressure keeps the fixture from drifting after making small pan adjustments to the light fixture. Just grab the fixture by the top of the yoke and twist to pan the fixture. Usually, you will not need to pull out your wrench to tighten the pan bolt, the fixture will stay securely held.

I find that true for one offs or a rep plot but something like rotating rep I still lock the #@$@#%^# out of them, the fewer focus notes I have to do every day at call the more time I have to nap.
 
What to they provide with the Revolution™?)
[/SIZE]
Two ETC Cast C-Clamps. They work, well, just like a c-clamp should.

On my PowerSpots I use half couplers, but I suppose one could use c-clamps as well. I mean if the c-clamp can hold the weight of a Rev, it should have no problem with a smaller fixture.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back