!!! logging in/out problems... just lost like 3 hours of attempted message or refinement on it.
here is the last section of the post at least.... Computers suck!.
On the
Fresnel, if you found it’s name plate
voltage/lamp ratings, it should have also had a brand name and part number on the
fixture. Expect this might be a yellow sticker like thing on the lower side or rear of the
fixture? Such info would be required on any such sticker plate as per your toaster oven also having such a plate/sticker on it. Given the info so far, it makes your
Fresnel date from at least the 1960's to about at most 1978 I would assume. Likely there will be more than one brand of
Fresnel and era in the inventory also. That you also didn’t instantly see anything like “Century” stamped into the
fixture or handle/knobs also helps to limit what specific
fixture you are seeing.
Concern of original
asbestos wiring, how it’s wired even if not, grounding, condition of wiring and lamp
base and many other details given the above details and lamp used become concerning - get these fixtures inspected by a professional in the industry. Do a “search” and studying into past posts on the word “
asbestos” and while you should not get panicked, you should be concerned in a educating yourself and follow up type of way on something that strikes a note as possibly in real need of attention due to what you say so far.
On the
PAR, measure the
gel frame size and or the opening and that would be sufficient to know what it is. 1Kw/120v however says
PAR 64 - no such thing as a
PAR lamp in this wattage of a different size. You want to find and educate yourself about the four various beam spreads of this lamp. Time to get a
book on
stage lighting so as to teach what you learn further, or at least know what gear you are working with so as to design with it better. A search into “
book” will lead to lots of books to look for.
The
PAR 64 lamp in having an inner
halogen capsule part of the lamp and outer
globe of soft lime glass also is safe to touch. Given these two lamps you mention, it makes it curious your original observation as to what caused the
bubble? Different lamp?
No need for gloves in either above lamp, but if you do implement a glove policy for other than gloves that can take some heat should you have to focus or in the case of the
PAR 64, have to “spin the
bottle”, make sure that your gloves are of specified types. IN handling
halogen lamps, first they must be “powder free,” “smooth” gloves of
PVC, Nitrate, polyetheylene or latex. Latex gloves are the most common in use, avoid them if you have young ladies potentially on the crew - latex in general, including with paint has a cumulative
effect on the reproductive tract that is not beneficial. Beyond that, there is proper
sizing and more important yet concepts in wearing the gloves.
Have to properly train your crew that the gloves are only there for changing the lamp and not reusable unless they only touch lamps or reversable. You will often find people holding onto a ladder with the lamp changing glove, holding a screw
driver, focusing
etc. with such a quartz glass holding glove. Dirt from any other surface than the lamp can be just as bad as touching the lamp with one’s oily skin. Kind of fun, if you catch a lamp early enough, you will actually see the finger prints in white now etched into the glass of the
halogen lamp. This might also be from touching the lamp with fairly dry skin but skin with just enough oil so as to etch the finger print into the glass.
BTN - is a 6"
Fresnel lamp as similar to your DNW lamp. Don’t use it in your 500w rated fixtures for now until they are upgraded.
FEL - is a
Altman 1000Q follow spot lamp. It’s possible it was bought for other say
Leko /
ERS fixtures but don’t use it in them unless rated for that lamp by way of name plate/
rating plate you saw on the
Fresnel. It’s a crap inefficient lamp.... urr, do a “search” into those despised “FEL” letters and you could read more.
BTL - now there is the DNW upgrade lamp - again the DNW is just fine for a lamp, use them up than only buy the BTL’s.
GLC - you must have some form of
Altman 360Q axial Lekos or
axial Lekos of a similar type. That’s a good lamp - smaller
filament that’s more effiecient but a lamp that is not very cost effective for lamp life. You would be better off with a GLA lamp as similar to it but the long life version. This if not a HPR lamp as similar to GLC in having a less efficient
filament for
gobo projection but a internal
reflector (sound like a broken record) for 15 to 20% more output. The GLA lamp is not a bad lamp, it’s just not the primary choice for overall output or cost effective long life. Save if possible these GLC lamps for
pattern/
gobo projections, than shoot for the more economical GLA lamps.
EGG - Had to look it up to verify, yep you have some radial Lekos also. It’s a similar to the DNW/BTL lamp for the Fresnels but longer in “
LCL” (Lamp Center Length). Focus fins to center of the
filament. This is a
halogen replacement lamp for the Lekos as if DNW/BTL lamp a “DNT”
incandescent lamp that will have originally have been used in your radial
Leko fixtures. Such lamps due to smaller optics available by way of hole cut in the
reflector to fit the lamp in, the lamps for the
ellipsoidal reflector spotlight /
Leko /
ERS in being a spotlight instead of
Fresnel or PC with wide body and lamp in front of the
parabolic reflector was more long than wide thus the extended length in still providing sufficient cooling area for the
filament but only with a longer lamp instead of wider more squat one.
Given this lamp in
stock which has the same lamp
base as what’s used on the
Fresnel, you will tend to want to inspect your inventory. It’s frequent that you will find a say BTN lamp shoved into a radial
Leko and that
Leko gets light out just not very efficiently, and difficult but at times possible to install the EGG into the
Fresnel fixture with also a not efficient beam of light but at times enough light coming out to fool you. Such lamps given the same lamp
base will often wrongly be installed into another
fixture.
The EGG lamp to date has no better improvement. Should you want more output/shorter life you go with a EGF, otherwise due to the size of the hole in the
reflector, such fixtures if optimized can be useful for supplemental and especially the amber colorings on your
stage. Your GLC based fixtures no doubt are bright blue in comparison to these almost yellow ones.
Note in my terms “radial” verses “
axial”
leko. I assume you know what a
Leko is, the Radial
Leko has the lamp housing off at like a 45 degree angle to the center axis of the lamp. The
axial fixture than is obvious but a good test question for students should you get a stagecraft class.
Otherwise on what will have been a further comment, make sure that what you learn and find in study you share with your partner and
right arm at the school. Have to keep both of you on the same
page by way of
vision, tech and concept or you will both quickly go into different paths. Discuss, debate, provide a copy of what you study to the other person so you stay in the same place given a similar goal and noble effort. Ever so important that you two become a team.