If Philips type screw, ensure your screwdriver is not worn and lots of pressure and strength in turning has been done on a non-moving part. And with than the same in attempting chemicals like even liquid wrench in letting it sit a while than trying. Amazing what a lot of pressure and a good tip will do especially if on the second try with a penetrating oil. Have a "Sword in the stone" competition for who can combine the most turning force with downward pressure - I'm not near a big guy, but often
call my guys wimps where experience comes to
play. Thats a diffent thing than football strength - this ability to apply pressure and turn a screw than just be bulk mass. Proper pressure, proper tip, often able to do wonders if not too bad in stripped out to save.
Even saw some diamond coated
power bit tips in McMaster Carr and other types for this purpose recently that would mount on cordless impact drivers well. Never tried it - for me normally unless someone made the
driver hole useless, a good and fresh Klien screw
driver will last a long time in removing screws with the proper pressure and if needed penetrating oils in waiting to try again. Otherwise I normally Dremmel or extractor
bit them.
Next step that I often use on stripped stainless steel mounting screws to Versa Tube aluminum mounting brackets is a cutoff wheel on a Dremmel tool in making it now a slotted screw.
Good tip - them installing screws, than removing them, inspect their tools
power or
hand for what condition they are in and periodically if a large project- stripped tipps, improper use "drill that screw in", needs attention and something any crew chief should hear about by way of sound from across the room in immediatly corrrecting. Instruction and replacement or it will cost you later. Bits should be replaced for free by any shop you work for,
hand tools one should have - debatable if used for company purposes but normal I think to replace or sell at discount at least. Replace warn tips with supervision to ensure you know how to use the tool properly, but it saves money in the long run and is a work expense. Inspected two 6" philips
Power bit tips today - showed wear on them, instructed what wear there was and how they were only good a little while longer in watching both use and the
bit. It was a sampling of bits used. Had to remove six thoroughly stripped stainless steel M4-.5x16mm
flat head screws off Versa Tube brackets today. Good percentage out of like 600 but still not good enough in watching for the people "drilling that screw out" or on verses using a tool properly, or in a crew chief inspecting the
bit used so it cannot strip out a screw easily. And for the training of difference between trying hard and drilling out that Philips screw to the extent it was useless.. Again with training and re-training from drywall screws to these rusted screws, training and techinques but mostly the stop if not coming and checking the
bit too. Than better methods. Supervision and training before the person that just made a Philips screw into a countersunk hole - that than moves onto the next screw with the same tip and technique. Funny with like a dozen or more cordless screw drivers doing the project, provided a lot of batteries, not one request for a new tip. Training thing.
Either in extractacting going to remove the screw, or break it off in getting the part off and now being able to use Vise Grips to get the screw out. Always re-tap any holes you are having problems with, than go stainless steel screw as a replacement where possible in aluminum. Granted this above is a mounting bracket I can get a Dremmel flexible wand with cutoff blade into. Unless they sell a right angle version, such a grinding wheel wouldn't be useful for inside a
lamp cap. Assuming not a stainless, black oxide but normal grade of steel screw or otherwise it did rust in the hole, there is various forms of screw extractors on the market that can remove the screw - often again with penetrating oil about the area in penetrating. Even TICN coated left twist (run your drill in reverse) drill bits with a 118 degree angle will at times work - especially on a Philips
bit that was stripped and had a center punch stamped in it's center. Concept is you either remove enough material from the head even with a
countersink bit that your part is removed and you have enough of the screw to Vise
grip out, or you remove so much material from the screw that it comes out or is displaced in re-tapping perhaps even for a larger screw. (Steel bits of a screw left behind in an aluminum or other material hole will often cause problems in re- tapping, but at times is the only way to do it.) Remove most of the stuck screws ... At times you are off center, or go off center and your extractor works towards the softer cast part. Don't always work in not working out.
Lots of types of extractor on the market and ways of doing it. Tried many of them, aluminum is hard to remove stuff from in general. Frequently drilling all the way
thru the casting will help in say tapping all the way
thru the material by way of pushing it out instead of trying to remove it. Just as often... it's toast, don't forget if a larger tapped hole won't work, the good old fashoned
Helicoil screw insert for a fix next. Often just takes some time and the proper tools. One situation is also different from another in what will work in trying if budget a lot of them as opposed to the amount of replacement cost. A balance in figuring out what will work.
Sorry, never seen a SL series
fixture, know and have an example of the series before where if you didn't tighten the
lens train knob and picked a
fixture up, it might
send the
lens train forward with sufficient force that it would eject the
lens. Anyone with a spare parts SL
Fixture that wants to
send it my way for the museum... Love some copies and to learn from them. Also looking for a S-4 575w series
fixture, sold them all off before the museum started. Sorry, no trades unless wanted a few steel
Altman PAR Can or 1KAL 6-30 series that in the next day or so are going out the door in donation to store front theaters. Storage building is being cleaned out. Sufficiently needy source has already been found in donation plus or minus one or two in trade.
SL reflectors from what I read are probably not much better than
ETC reflectors - and probably more easy to get out short of a hammer. Just as often see a crack in the outer glass but they often are fine unless seen on the
reflector side. Hard to get out - I'm about the only one in the shop that can get them out even given lots of training and custom tools to make it easier. Getting them back in... that's all luck in getting it aligned just right while pushing and it not going off in any way. At one
point I was making a
jig for doing so. Never finished it but would be a useful thing to make.