Actually, it really depends on what your
non-dim is. If you are using a regular
dimmer that you have profiled as a
non-dim (either on your
console or at the
dimmer) this does not bypass the
SCR. In
SCR dimmers, even when their output is at full they still are flipping on and off for the tiniest instant twice every cycle. This is bad for lots of equipment like fixtures with ballasts, fan motors, and many other things.
If you have an
ETC Sensor Rack (and I would imagine
Strand has something similar) you can buy two different types of "
non-dim" modules, the CC-20 (constant
circuit) and the R-20 (
relay module). The CC-20 is literally a a hard connection through a
fuse and
circuit breaker that feeds pure
line power out to the
circuit. These modules are always on unless you flip off the
breaker and you can't control them from the
console. With the R-20 modules it is essentially the same circuitry as the CC-20 except that you can turn the
circuit on and off from the
console, hence the name "
relay module." Using either a CC-20 or R-20 module as a
non dim for MLs is acceptable.
If your
non dim is just a plain old switched or breakered
outlet that should be fine as well, you just don't want your MLs plugged into a
dimmer.
DarSax said:
So I'm concerned about this thread sorta. How do you
strike intels? At my school, we've always just put them in non-dims and flipped the
power on/off..should I be concerned about overload during striking? The highest
power I'm pulling (according to the
power specs on the respective ML's websites) is going to be 41.5A on a 60A
circuit. (I'll be using a Hog 2)
As for striking your fixtures, most fixtures support a couple different striking modes (and if you read back in this thread some are mentioned). You can generally set your MLs to:
1-
Strike on
power up
2- Remote
Strike (controlled via the
console)
3-
Manual Strike (requiring you to be at the
fixture)
My personal preference is to use remote
strike whenever possible. This allows you to turn the fixtures on but not have the lamps struck, and then destrike the lamps but leave the fixtures on so the fans run and they cool down. If you look in the
manual for the fixtures you are using they will tell you what levels you need to set what control
channel to in order to
strike/destrike the lamps.
As for
strike/destrike procedures, just read this thread, it was what we have been talking about.