Sure, blame it on that.
Strobe on dimmer
- Thread starterCharc
- Start date
What kind of techno?
Actually, while we are on the topic, strobes are a very good example of why some devices shouldn't be connected to dimmers. In addition to the fact that the internal electronics of some devices don't like the SCR "switching" noise many strobes get their strobe rate based on the 60Hz AC cycle. If you put a strobe on a dimmer (I know for a fact with the AF1000s) you may find that you can't get a continuous strobe effect. Even at full, the switched AC waveform does not allow the strobe to count correctly, and you only get 1 flash when you turn the channel on, then you have to turn the channel off and back on to get another. This is why Constant Circuit and Relay modules are great to have for your dimmer racks.
Oh, and by the way you haven't seen an AF1000 until to see it operation with the HOI lamp in Special Effects mode with an input voltage of 190v - 240v
Oh, and by the way you haven't seen an AF1000 until to see it operation with the HOI lamp in Special Effects mode with an input voltage of 190v - 240v
Another anecdote, since Alex opened the door. Around 1985 I had two Diversitronics Super Strobes, 2fered to one dedicated controller, via a 4pin Y cable. This was allowed by the factory, and was before DMX. In a hotel ballroom, I plugged each strobe into the wall for power and ran 4pin XLR cable to each strobe. The strobes should have fired simultaneously when I set the controller, but would not. Turns out the wall outlets were on different phases, therefore the 60Hz cycles were off from one another. When I ran an extension cord powering both strobes from the same outlet, the strobes fired together.
Charc, the best solution to your problem would probably be to use your 500W PAR56s, NSP if you have them (smaller wattage=less filament lag-time), colored with AP#2000 (or L201). Write a wacky profile on the dimmer like: 0,FL,0,FL,0,FL,FL,0,0,0. I did this with 500W 10" beam projectors focused through a window, on a Light Palette in 1980. Not as good as a strobe, but possibly brighter and infinitely easier.
Charc, the best solution to your problem would probably be to use your 500W PAR56s, NSP if you have them (smaller wattage=less filament lag-time), colored with AP#2000 (or L201). Write a wacky profile on the dimmer like: 0,FL,0,FL,0,FL,FL,0,0,0. I did this with 500W 10" beam projectors focused through a window, on a Light Palette in 1980. Not as good as a strobe, but possibly brighter and infinitely easier.
As for DMX cable alternatives:
Lightronics Wireless DMX
Should be pretty cheap as wireless DMX systems go.
Lightronics Wireless DMX
Should be pretty cheap as wireless DMX systems go.
Alex, interestingly enough I think the "one flash" feature would be a desirable outcome. Then I could send the channel from 0 to FL, etc. I just still don't see how it could hurt the dimmer, especially if it's not a high wattage strobe (think DJ quality.) Unfortunately there would be no "window" to focus through, at least I can't assume so until the set gets decided upon.
I'm not sure about the PARs though. Unfortunately in the NSP flavor all I have is 1kW. It's conceivable i could wire up some ACLs, depending on the cost of lamps.
I'm not sure about the PARs though. Unfortunately in the NSP flavor all I have is 1kW. It's conceivable i could wire up some ACLs, depending on the cost of lamps.
Ya know I had considered that, but I had two issues with my idea. 1. High RPM circle thing flying around above the audience's collective heads. 2. I don't really want a "strobe" effect, I want 2-3 flashes like "Flash, beat, Flash, Flash". I can't really think of a viable option. My concern with the 500W PAR-56 NSP idea is that it wouldn't be bright enough, and with too much lag.
I may try some 1KW PAR-65 NSP. I'd preheat the filament to 10%, 10 or so seconds early, then bump it to full, drop to 25%, skip a beat, then bump full, drop to 25%, go full, and then 0. I think it would work...?
I may try some 1KW PAR-65 NSP. I'd preheat the filament to 10%, 10 or so seconds early, then bump it to full, drop to 25%, skip a beat, then bump full, drop to 25%, go full, and then 0. I think it would work...?
Yea I think that should work.
Yes, that's the same principal as my "custom lightning profile." Smaller wattage is better, but as you said, you also need intensity. I think you'll find the lamp turning off is more of a problem than the lamp turning on, so I would preheat, but wouldn't let the lamp idle at 25%. Be sure to "pre-delay" your lighting cues to the soundtrack, because if lightning and thunder happen at the same time, it's pretty darn close to you, like you're being struck, and not in the theatrical sense.
If you're looking for a full stage lightning effect, I don't think even an HES Dataflash would be bright enough, and certainly not a "DJ-quality" strobe. I'd use a cluster of at least four 1KwPAR64-NSP, all from the same location, and either L201 or L202 (or Apollo equivalent).
Just for fun, check out Lightning Strikes®. Very impressive stuff. I've seen those fixtures make 4/0 feeder jump one foot off the floor during firing!
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This is where cheap basic gear works some times. I have run 1500W anaologue "Gigastrobes" off Jands 2400 watt dimmers, (they have 40 amp triacs) for extended periods without any damage.
Sometimes you try these things to see if it makes a quick easy solution and in this case it worked. The gig was two stages face on at each end of a large building and both stages had an analogue strobe as an audience blinder behind the drummer, running of a dimmer channel.
I mentioned the power rating of the Jands dimmers as some 2400 watt dimmers only use 16 amp triacs.
The flash rate was set farly fast to suit the bands but you could get short bursts by using the dimmer flash button.
I am not saying this will work with every strobe and every dimmer but it did with basic gear.
Sometimes you try these things to see if it makes a quick easy solution and in this case it worked. The gig was two stages face on at each end of a large building and both stages had an analogue strobe as an audience blinder behind the drummer, running of a dimmer channel.
I mentioned the power rating of the Jands dimmers as some 2400 watt dimmers only use 16 amp triacs.
The flash rate was set farly fast to suit the bands but you could get short bursts by using the dimmer flash button.
I am not saying this will work with every strobe and every dimmer but it did with basic gear.
Derek, I've replaced every PAR-64 can in my venue with the new and improved PAR-65. (So my finga slipped! Wha', use wanna figh' abou' it?)
So no idling? Why not? Doesn't turn off quick enough? What about
10 seconds to cue, PAR64 at 10%
beat 1: PAR64 FL
beat 2: PAR64 @ 0
beat 3: PAR64 @ 10
beat 4: hold
beat 5: PAR64 @ FL
beat 6: PAR64 @ 0
beat 7: PAR64 @10
beat 8: PAR64 @ FL
beat 9: PAR64 @ 0
I'll have to investigate gel colors, and see what I can pull. I don't have my Apollo or Lee swatchbooks handy (sorry Keith, they're across the room, and I'm lazy, but my Rosco swatchbook is within 18 inches...) but it seems to me like something to the order of R63 might do the trick. (I think the acting area will already be warm, so a cooler gel would help contrast, I believe.)
I'm thinking about my angles and positions some-more, and perhaps this effect would be best created from an AP position. I'm thinking 20º 1KW ERS with a window gobo.
(So my finga slipped! Wha', use wanna figh' abou' it?)So no idling? Why not? Doesn't turn off quick enough? What about
10 seconds to cue, PAR64 at 10%
beat 1: PAR64 FL
beat 2: PAR64 @ 0
beat 3: PAR64 @ 10
beat 4: hold
beat 5: PAR64 @ FL
beat 6: PAR64 @ 0
beat 7: PAR64 @10
beat 8: PAR64 @ FL
beat 9: PAR64 @ 0
I'll have to investigate gel colors, and see what I can pull. I don't have my Apollo or Lee swatchbooks handy (sorry Keith, they're across the room, and I'm lazy, but my Rosco swatchbook is within 18 inches...) but it seems to me like something to the order of R63 might do the trick. (I think the acting area will already be warm, so a cooler gel would help contrast, I believe.)
I'm thinking about my angles and positions some-more, and perhaps this effect would be best created from an AP position. I'm thinking 20º 1KW ERS with a window gobo.
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