This is what you will want to do... You can achieve most of your
effect with your
cyc lights. Use blue 50-100% with maybe 5-10% red. This will give you a little purple, but still be on the deep blue side. Using star godos sparingly with a
donut will enhance your night time
effect. Don't be afraid, also, to add a cloud or too, because there are clouds at night. You may want to use a blue that is slightly darker than your original
CYC color. Perhaps congo blue or purple. Also
No Color Blue or white would give sort of a "milky way"
effect. In any event, you don't want your
CYC to be one solid shade of blue. You are going for realism. Soft streaks of white light (using two-tone cloud gobos, slightly out of focus, with the lamp adjusted on a
flat field) Will give you more depth. Think about what I did to the studio wall at banquet. You also have a moon
gobo somewhere. Use it if possible. When the sun comes up, The blue will slowly go out and be replaced with green. The red will also brighten to almost full, depending on how orange you want the light to be. More green will give you more yellow when mixed with the red. By the way, this will probably be a two - three part
cue... Then you can add blue to full while the red and green are fading out. Whatever you do, you don't want the day to be the same as the night. That's why I recommended the night to have a slightly purple tint to it. Now, assuming that you don't have anything moving behind the
CYC, I would add fresnels or parcans doing rear projection to give your
CYC more punch. DO NOT PLACE THE FIXTURES TOO CLOSE TO THE
CYC!!! Even the beams are hot! So, you can use those to project some light sky blue (lighter than the
CYC gels) to give your day-time
CYC more visual appeal. For your sunrise C/F, try to add a beam or two of yellow from the rear, in the center of the
CYC, but use it sparingly, because the blue will eventually need to
wash it out.
Hope This Helps!!!