Wireless Threaded microphones

Joe Allen

Member
Hi all.
I recently bought a new set of wireless headsets for our theatre, and they had the tag 'threaded' on them. Unfortunately they arrived and only had the threads, but nothing to screw onto. We are using Sennheiser G3 transmitters, which have the same female threaded end. Is there any way to 'adapt' or (without soldering) change the end of the mic's so they hold onto the mic pack?

Thank you!
 
All the G3 Transmitters I've worked with had threaded female jacks to accept the threaded male jack of the mic. Except for g3 receivers for IEM systems, those didn't have the threads. You did say headsets, did you mean in ear monitors? or a headset/boom mic? Just clarifying because I'm with Jay, its not entirely clear and is seems strange that your transmitters wouldn't have the threads already there. But it also sounds like you have threads on both... It should screw down and lock the mic to the pack.
 
So what you have is 2 threads, one on the male and one on the female. Can you return them and replace them with the right version? That seems like the easiest option to "adapt" them.
 
I've contacted the seller as soon as I got them, but they say they don't accept returns. I could possibly sell them, but then someone else might get stuck with the same problem!
 
Picture please. It may be well worth it to replace the plugs. There are some good 3rd party ones out there in the under $10 price. Will require some soldering and a little work with heat shrink tubing if you want it to be reliable.
 
Picture please. It may be well worth it to replace the plugs. There are some good 3rd party ones out there in the under $10 price. Will require some soldering and a little work with heat shrink tubing if you want it to be reliable.
I've just bought some on eBay to have a go with! Thank you all for the help!
-Joe Allen
 
I've just bought some on eBay to have a go with! Thank you all for the help!
-Joe Allen
For a mic on the Sennheiser packs, you use the tip and sleeve. The ring contact on the TRS should be jumped to the sleeve (ground.)
The ring contact is actually used for line input. (In which case the T & S are jumped and your signal goes to R)

When you go to change the plug, don't throw the old one out. You may find multiple conductors and need the plug to figure out which goes where.
 
For a mic on the Sennheiser packs, you use the tip and sleeve. The ring contact on the TRS should be jumped to the sleeve (ground.)
The ring contact is actually used for line input. (In which case the T & S are jumped and your signal goes to R)

When you go to change the plug, don't throw the old one out. You may find multiple conductors and need the plug to figure out which goes where.
Great, thank you! I might've tripped up there!
 
While we're on the subject of Sennheiser belt pack wiring, I have a bunch of AKG headsets that I'd love to replace the connectors on for sennheiser. I read something about 120ohm resistor somewhere after I ordered an adapter that didn't work.
Has anyone done a mini-XLR to 1/8" TRS replacement before?
 
While we're on the subject of Sennheiser belt pack wiring, I have a bunch of AKG headsets that I'd love to replace the connectors on for sennheiser. I read something about 120ohm resistor somewhere after I ordered an adapter that didn't work.
Has anyone done a mini-XLR to 1/8" TRS replacement before?
The pack puts out a mic bias voltage. If the AKGs are like the Shure connector, basically, 3 conductors and a 4 pin jack, you could probably use the same wiring conversion for them. I do not remember a resistor being involved. The name of that connector slips my mind, but a quick google will reveal the correct wiring.

Here's a neat site that has all the pin-outs! - http://www.point-sourceaudio.com/contact/support/wiring/

Looks like pins 2 & 3 would go to the tip and pin 1 would go to the ring and sleeve. (jumped)
 
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We'd still appreciate the photos, Joe. The cost of free help from the community has always been *making the archived threads useful to others in the future*, not just here, but everywhere on the 'net.
 
Ah, apologies Jay (and All!). I managed to melt through the cable (with the soldering iron!), so this project is off the table... The one I did solder failed to hold properly, so for reference, I would NOT recommend trying this, it's probably easier to buy new ones outright!
 

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