Traveller operating lines

norwintd

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Hello all
We recently had new curtains installed on our High School Stage and due to some height issues we ordered the new travelers and Main curtain about 18" longer than the previous curtains. Unfortunately we didn't think about the fact that the operating line and pulleys will no longer reach the floor to lock into the floor plates. My question is it possible to splice and extend the operator lines the 3' or so or do I need to replace the ropes completely for each set. I'm looking at 5 curtains 66' across and 15 feet high so I figure almost 1000' to redo all of it or 20' if i can just extend each one the few needed feet.
Any thoughts or help is appreciated as always
-Todd
 

rsmentele

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Someone else may chime in and disagree, or offer other opinions, but the traveler line is non weight bearing/ tension-ed, so I don't see an issue with it. In a perfect world, I would replace the entire line with a piece cut to the correct length, but that's not always monetarily possible, so in this case I would try to add in the extra 3' needed in an area that will allow the knots to not have to run through any pulleys as it would cause the line to snag or stop all together. And also, just remember to tie the appropriate line splicing knot!

http://www.animatedknots.com/indext...png&Website=www.animatedknots.com#ScrollPoint
 

egilson1

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How far off the floor do the tension blocks sit with the current hand lines?
 

RonHebbard

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Hello all
We recently had new curtains installed on our High School Stage and due to some height issues we ordered the new travelers and Main curtain about 18" longer than the previous curtains. Unfortunately we didn't think about the fact that the operating line and pulleys will no longer reach the floor to lock into the floor plates. My question is it possible to splice and extend the operator lines the 3' or so or do I need to replace the ropes completely for each set. I'm looking at 5 curtains 66' across and 15 feet high so I figure almost 1000' to redo all of it or 20' if i can just extend each one the few needed feet.
Any thoughts or help is appreciated as always
-Todd
You may consider not anchoring the idler blocks directly to the floor. Instead, tie them down with 18" of suitable chain and let them live above floor level.
Negatives: Itty bitty short kids have to reach up a little highger.
Positives: You don't need to replace the pull lines yet.
When you need to eventually replace the pull lines at some point in the future, worry about making the lines longer and returning the idlers to floor level then. This may mean you get to replace one line a year over several years as the various pull lines reach their respective ends of lives easing the budget hit in any one year.
Toodleoo!
Ron Hebbard.
 
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egilson1

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What Ron said. Another thing is overtime the hand line will stretch which will make the tension walk closer to the floor.

The issue with splicing the line is finding a good location for that splice that will not catch or bind on anything is going to be very difficult. If you're going to do it the only place to consider is between the master carrier where the line terminates and the dead end pulley, off stage of the center stage line support. That way the splice is traveling in open air as far as possible and maybe doesn't run into the dead end pulley.
 

Van

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A. SOmeone screwed the pooch and should have figured out that with new curtains you'd need new line.
B. Do NOT 'splice a piece into the existing line' it WILL fail and at the worst possible moment.
C. Purchase a "Weighted Floor Pulley" from any reputable rigging vendor.
D. If you don't want to/can't purchase a weighted floor pulley then get some Plywood, make a rectangle the same size as the bottom plate of the existing pulley, make a bag out of heavy-weight muslin or medium weight Canvas that has an opening the same circumference as the outside measure of the rectangle and which is about 20" from the mouth to the bottom. Put a kitchen size garbage bag in the canvas bag and put about 15-20 pounds of sand in it. Double over the top of the bag, staple it to the side of the plywood with a LOT of staples. wrap the top with Plumbers tape and screw it to the plywood. Paint everything black. Viola you now have a Weighted Floor pulley. Bolt the ply to the bottom of your existing pulley using the holes you drilled prior to putting the sand bag on and utilizing the T-Nuts you installed. DO NOT USE SCREWS to hold the ply onto the bottom of the pulley. IT MUST BE THROUGH-BOLTED! Remember this unit will be stored at height you do not want screws pulling through wood when the traveler is in the air and having that bag come crashing down.
 
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JChenault

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I would opine that there is a simpler solution than a weighted floor pulley or chain. Build a box 18 inches tall the size of the base of the pulley. Attach the box to the floor, and screw the floor pulley to the box.
 
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RonHebbard

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I would opine that there is a simpler solution than a weighted floor pulley or chain. Build a box 18 inches tall the size of the base of the pulley. Attach the box to the floor, and screw the floor pulley to the box.
Maybe but not the best if the travellers also fly out as well.
Yet another option is a box as you're describing but fill it full of counter-weights, rather than screwing it to the deck, when you want to use it. Then you can remove the weights and leave them behind when you want to fly the idler out with the curtain.
"Opine?" You been nibbling on your Funk & Wagnall's again?
Toodleoo!
Ron Hebbard.
 
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BillConnerFASTC

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Clayton NY 13624
I recommend the sand bag approach - much nicer when a performer kicks it running off stage. It is what I do as a default. Should not be hard to build if you can sew a little canvas. I like the "truncated pryamid" shape, but just tying a sand bag on will work.

I'm not opposed to a knot but not many places in the line where it doesn't run through a guide or sheave. Maybe just to the opposite side of a master carrier, but there is usually a guide there and if you move it that further away, there will be more rope sag when curtain is open.
 

RonHebbard

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about 18" off the floor.
If you opt to chain the idlers down to a counter-weight, consider using two chains to help stabilize the idlers and lessen their desire to spin around and tangle the pull lines. I recall drilling and tapping two through holes through one of our heaviest counter-weights. I placed the holes further apart than the holes on the base of the idlers to broaden the base of the chains increasing the resistance to spinning. Drilling and tapping cast iron can be a little unpleasant but it's none the less doable.
I used wing-headed bolts and flat-washers to secure the chains to the counter-weight for tool-free ease of detachment when flying the tracks out.
Toodleoo!
Ron Hebbard.
 

RonHebbard

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Waterdown, ON, CA
Hello all
We recently had new curtains installed on our High School Stage and due to some height issues we ordered the new travelers and Main curtain about 18" longer than the previous curtains. Unfortunately we didn't think about the fact that the operating line and pulleys will no longer reach the floor to lock into the floor plates. My question is it possible to splice and extend the operator lines the 3' or so or do I need to replace the ropes completely for each set. I'm looking at 5 curtains 66' across and 15 feet high so I figure almost 1000' to redo all of it or 20' if i can just extend each one the few needed feet.
Any thoughts or help is appreciated as always
-Todd
Hello! Have you resolved this yet and, if so, what option did you select?
Toodleoo!
Ron Hebbard.
 

norwintd

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Location
Irwin, PA
Thanks to everyone for the replies,
After looking at the path of the rope it doesn't look like i could splice in a piece due to the guides and pulley locations. So until I can restring new lines. I am going build an "I" shaped extension that will be bolted to the tension block with bolts on the bottom that will still lock into my floor plates. Hopefully it will only be temporary till I can get purchase new ropes.
thank you as always ,
-Todd
 

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