Truss & Cheeseboroughs

Hi everyone! I am actually not new to the site but It wouldn't let me log in for some reason so I had to create a new account.

My question is regarding 90 Degree fixed Cheesborough's....

I have to fly a rig that is essentially a box/rectangle.... but the points I am working with don't match up very evenly. All we have are 10', 5', and 3' sticks of truss and no combination will allow me to connect them with corner blocks.

I have seen other companies use cheeseboroughs to attach the perpendicular truss underneath the other one.... This would work perfectly and the motor would still be supporting the weight of the intersection.

What do you think? Any riggers out there? Is this okay to do? I know the load on the truss would be lower if I do this, but we aren't hanging very much at all.... Maybe A mover each side and some lekos.

Any advice? Or can I clarify if it didn't make sense?

Thanks!!!
 
re: Truss & Cheesboroughs

If all you are using cheeseboroughs for is to position truss and the motors are supporting the load this can be done.

If it was me rigging it I would see about using a Grapple It would allow the box to be created with all the sides on the same plain.

Or a Saddle could get the job done, it seems like it is more flexible than a Grapple because often times where you want to use a grapple there is either a diangle or a vertical member in the way.
 
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re: Truss & Cheesboroughs

Thanks! I hadn't even heard of a saddle before :)

I though about the Grapples but it still doesn't solve the issue that my sides of the truss box are slightly longer than what would normally fit, follow?

Thanks!
 
re: Truss & Cheesboroughs

The old this gig isn't worth getting a custom stick of truss made for this designers dumb idea syndrome.

Sometimes I have found that you can get away with changing the the truss layout to make it easier to get some dead hangs or to work with existing truss sizes. Sending out an email purposing a change can be easier than fighting to get what they want. I have worked with designers that just draw a line as long as they need it for truss roughly where they would want it. Letting them know if they let me move the truss 3' they can get an additional 4' of trim and that I'll be adding ten feet to the length is usually met with a sounds great.
 
re: Truss & Cheesboroughs

...I have seen other companies use cheeseborough s to attach the perpendicular truss underneath the other one.... This would work perfectly and the motor would still be supporting the weight of the intersection. ...
Always pick the lower truss so the cheeseburgers are in compression rather than tension. Some will insist on a 5' or 10' steel safety to back up the joint, but I'm not sure that's necessary. Don't use steel burgers with aluminum truss, and vice-versa.
 
re: Truss & Cheesboroughs

Always pick the lower truss so the cheeseburgers are in compression rather than tension. Some will insist on a 5' or 10' steel safety to back up the joint, but I'm not sure that's necessary. Don't use steel burgers with aluminum truss, and vice-versa.

Agreed, pick the lower truss and use the cheeseboroughs to position the higher truss. If you have to pick the higher truss because of dead hangs the support the lower with gakflex.
 
re: Truss & Cheesboroughs

Hi everyone! I am actually not new to the site but It wouldn't let me log in for some reason so I had to create a new account.

My question is regarding 90 Degree fixed Cheesborough's....

I have to fly a rig that is essentially a box/rectangle.... but the points I am working with don't match up very evenly. All we have are 10', 5', and 3' sticks of truss and no combination will allow me to connect them with corner blocks.

I have seen other companies use cheeseboroughs to attach the perpendicular truss underneath the other one.... This would work perfectly and the motor would still be supporting the weight of the intersection.

What do you think? Any riggers out there? Is this okay to do? I know the load on the truss would be lower if I do this, but we aren't hanging very much at all.... Maybe A mover each side and some lekos.

Any advice? Or can I clarify if it didn't make sense?

Thanks!!!

Uhm, how are we not violating the TOS with this subject? Curious...
 
re: Truss & Cheesboroughs

Y'know what derek? I remember that now....dear lord- sleep deprivation makes me look dumber than normal! But I'm better now...
 
re: Truss & Cheeseboroughs

Well...look how long it took me to get back and reply, Michael. "Softball" might be my new middle name.

But since we've been rained out the last few days I'm feeling/thinking much better. Behold my prolific output over on the Spiderman and Hugh Jackman threads. :)
 
re: Truss & Cheeseboroughs

Question for Derek -
I'm interested by the advice to not use Steel Burgers on Al truss and vice versa.
Is this related to typical chord diameters or another reason?
Thanks
 
re: Truss & Cheeseboroughs

i would hazard to guess this is due to the fact that steel is harder than Al and will chew it to peices

To a point..
Boroughs are nice because by design they wont tear up trussing like say a c-clamp would. Primarily its a good practice because of different qualities of the metal. You dont want to be compensating for the strength of steel on your entire rig and use Al boroughs and have them become the failure point.
 
re: Truss & Cheeseboroughs

... Is this related to typical chord diameters or another reason? ...
The two reasons stated above:
1. Truss is usually made of 50mm (1.97") O.D. tube vs. 1.90" O.D. of 1.5" pipe
2. Dissimilar metals. Aluminum is softer than steel.

3. Aluminum cheeseborough s are often made from two half-coupler s, with the rigid (fixed) version held at 90° with a tiny roll pin. There's often quite a bit of play.
 

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