TTI Dimmers & Late Night Theater

I'm looking at the receptacle / plug I'll need for these units. Would the L6-60P be the correct for Single Phase 240V operation for Locking?

Most of the packs I have seen have been equipped with the NEMA 14-50P plug, which is a lot cheaper (4 blade range plug.) It is 50 amp, so you would be de-rating the pack to 12k running off a 50x2 amp breaker. If you expect to fully load the pack at 20 amps per channel, then the 60 amp plug is called for.
 
Would that be expected to see at a venue? I know every place is unique in its own way so it's an impossible question to answer. But I won't be using these for permeant install (which if I was I'd just put a 60A Twist Lock on and call it a day). Now I noticed the unit has both a grounding lug and a neutral bar. However the wiring is only 4 wire (3 hots and a neutral). What's the grounding path in this case?

As far as the TOS go, hopefully this isn't violating them. As this isn't necessarily, how do I wire it. But what the most versatile connection is we'd see in a touring setup. I know how to properly wire it and all that, just want to make sure I don't get stuck shelling out $30+ for the plug and then have it not be useful.
 
I am going on memory, which isn't good, but I believe it is set up for single phase, two hots, nuetral and a ground. All the ones I ever used was set that way.
 
Going by memory here, but the TTI dimmers do not have a "controller" card. Each dimmer mod has it's own ramp generator and firing circuit. Basically, the packs can be set up at the input block for single phase (or two hots) by running 3 modules on each hot, or three phase by running 2 modules on each hot. Each module doesn't much care what the phase of it's income power source is as it is a complete dimmer unto itself.

As for the power distribution question, most large venues supply via cams or tails from a company switch. Smaller venues are anybody's guess. Getting too specific here might be a TOS problem, but in most cases, you need some form of distro unit.
 
The way the dimmers are wired is you have 6 individual breakers and 6 Individual Cards. For Single Phase three breakers are tied together with a copper cutout that sits inside of the three breaker contacts. That will give you 120V @ 60A for One Hot, then 120 V @ 60A for the other Hot feeder. Or in three phase it pairs two breakers onto each phase for 40A / Phase.

The feed from the breaker is then terminated into a block that runs the length of the pack. One feed off the breaker goes directly to the dimmer module to provide power for receiving signal, another one feeds the actual dimming circuit / fixture. So each breaker has two feeds coming off of it, one strictly for control power, one for dimmer (lighting) power.

The neutrals off of everything tie back to a neutral bar so you have 6 neutrals from the lighting instrument then one single neutral from the controller.

All the grounds are tied together from the power connectors (stagepin in this case), then terminated into a lug attached to the chassie.

Any who just an explanation for the above question as to how the device is wired.

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To the topic at hand however I think I'll just wire a 40A Twistlock 3 Phase onto it and call it a day. Then for each venue I'll have to figure out actual power distro.
 
If you wanted to run the system off of 3 phase, or single phase power, then the packs should be configured for single phase. Because you have three packs, a single phase loading would be AB,AB,AB and a three phase loading would be AB,BC,CA.

Conversely, if the packs are wired for three phase, you cannot get balance on a single phase source as 9 does not divide equally by 2. Example - ABA, BAB, ???
 
The balancing will be an interesting one. The issue with that is for some events I may only need 2 dimmer packs, some all three, or maybe even one.
 
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I was able to go over to the supply house today and Barbizon to get the stage pin connectors. I only purchased one for now to test to make sure it worked how I wanted to. I must say it works perfectly, the old cords were just using a screw down NM clamp. This metal mesh strain relief works great and doesn't crush the cord at all, plus allows for a nice tail.

Luckily I called my supply house as I got the 12/3 SOOW for 85 cents a foot as opposed to the $1.25 at Barbizon. The plan is to replace all of the old stage pin connectors with these new ones and mesh reliefs. Along with all new paint.
 

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...This metal mesh strain relief works great and doesn't crush the cord at all, plus allows for a nice tail.
Well, that's certainly one way. Loose, floppy "nice tails" are generally not preferred for touring equipment. Perhaps a better (and possibly less expensive) alternative is to use panel mount 2P&G receptacles,

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and having a new panel punched if necessary.
 
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Well, that's certainly one way. Loose, floppy "nice tails" are generally not preferred for touring equipment. Perhaps a better (and possibly less expensive) alternative is to use panel mount 2P&G receptacles,

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and having a new panel punched if necessary.
Some of theses dimmers do have individual receptacles, we also have one with a bakelite block that has female pins connected to the back.
 
All of the TTI dimmers I remember had the panel mount connectors. Much cleaner to move around. Of course, I didn't see many traveling. Most of the ones I saw were part of a house system, usually at small dinner theaters. They were all over the place back in the 80's. That and EDI scrimmers and scrimmeretts. (spell)
 
Short of a new panel the relief like that is the best option.
 
Could anyone recommend a well priced source for a panel with cut outs for a whole mess of stagepin connectors. I am about ready to buy some blank rack panels and a bunch of blades for my jigsaw and just cut the bloody things myself.
 
...I am about ready to buy some blank rack panels and a bunch of blades for my jigsaw and just cut the bloody things myself.
The operative word being "bloody." Resist the urge, or you'll regret it.

Union Connector, SSRC, City Theatrical, et al will do custom panels, but your local metal shop with a punch press will likely be less costly and faster.
 
The operative word being "bloody." Resist the urge, or you'll regret it.

Union Connector, SSRC, City Theatrical, et al will do custom panels, but your local metal shop with a punch press will likely be less costly and faster.

Lightronics sells a panel that holds 12 stage pin connectors. It is standard audio/electronics rack panel size: 19 inches wide. On Ebay it sells "buy it now" with the connectors for $300. The connectors alone are about $60, so the panel and labor to mount the connectors is $240. Seems a bit high, but you can use the info to compare local sheet metal fabrication.

Tom Johnson
 

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