Urban Roll Down Security Grate

You might send a private message to Van for more info. As far as the foam, as I understand it, it is so you can staple thru the backing webbing thru the luan strips and allow the staples to penetrate all the way, then you flip over the whole thing on a concrete floor and flatten the protruding staple ends.
My thoughts on the project, perhaps instead of the nylon webbing strips, use canvas as a full size backer, more glue surface. Instead of the 1/4 inch dowels between the strips, perhaps foam backer rod.
1/4" Closed Cell Backer Rod - 100 ft Roll - Amazon.com
The 3/8 inch might read better from a distance.
Helpful Hint #1, If you don't have a good local source for canvas, try the canvas drop cloth available at big box and paint stores, usually very good pricing.
Helpful Hint #2, Another money saver, especially considering the volatile price of luan thin plywood is to keep an eye out at your local Habitat for Humanity Restore for wood paneling. Both the hardboard type with the printed finish or the plywood type. You can use the back if the grooves get in the way.
 
You might send a private message to Van for more info. As far as the foam, as I understand it, it is so you can staple thru the backing webbing thru the luan strips and allow the staples to penetrate all the way, then you flip over the whole thing on a concrete floor and flatten the protruding staple ends.
My thoughts on the project, perhaps instead of the nylon webbing strips, use canvas as a full size backer, more glue surface. Instead of the 1/4 inch dowels between the strips, perhaps foam backer rod.
1/4" Closed Cell Backer Rod - 100 ft Roll - Amazon.com
The 3/8 inch might read better from a distance.
Helpful Hint #1, If you don't have a good local source for canvas, try the canvas drop cloth available at big box and paint stores, usually very good pricing.
Helpful Hint #2, Another money saver, especially considering the volatile price of luan thin plywood is to keep an eye out at your local Habitat for Humanity Restore for wood paneling. Both the hardboard type with the printed finish or the plywood type. You can use the back if the grooves get in the way.

Yes, we just bought some luan at another theater that I work with and it was not close to cheap. Thanks for explaining process. It makes more sense now. I just wasn't picturing it somehow. I'm going run these ideas by the director and see what she thinks. Thanks to everyone for their help
 
We worked on the original set. The main one was a real steel door which was re engineered to work for the show. There were other doors that were just for looks and did not operate. Those we vacuum formed and I still have the molds and use them regularly for in inexpensive alternative to the real thing. The molds are simple and were made form a base cap moulding and half rounds. It would be possible to cut off the ends and roll the plastic up around a tube. Probably simpler to just make a simple canvas drop on a roller and paint it to look like a steel door.
rolling door mold.jpg
rolling door mold side.jpg


You could also make a tambour door, like a roll top desk or appliance garage doors , and glue wood slats to canvas and put that on a roller.
 
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Thank you. They are beautiful. I may try the tambour idea. It depends on how many the director wants. It's not like we are going to be overflowing with parent volunteers! I would love to be able to vacuum form things. Props, scenery, all kinds of stuff. It seems like a great tool. I have to find a loop hole in the budget somewhere that I can sneak that into.
 
We used the blinds that Les suggested as a security door in Avenue Q and it looked fantastic. It looked real and it could be rolled up and all! Definitely check into that. The only suggestion is be sure to have a very sturdy one with a secure way of mounting it.
 
We used the blinds that Les suggested as a security door in Avenue Q and it looked fantastic. It looked real and it could be rolled up and all! Definitely check into that. The only suggestion is be sure to have a very sturdy one with a secure way of mounting it.

I am going to try it as a test. Paint one up and let people view it from the seats.

I can't say enough about this forum. You professional people are such a huge help to us part-timer / volunteer types. You save us from expensive mistakes and / or embarrasment. Though I still manage to wrangle a few of them every show! It is greatly appreciated. Thank you
 
So in addition to my fire escapes from the other thread, I also have to make an additional roll door (we already have one real metal one that was donated). I'm thinking of using Van's idea of construction, but to move it more like a roll top desk than a roll up door. Less moving parts is always better in my book. I think once painted it should give a pretty realstic look.

The theory is simple, just make two tracks on both sides of the opening, slide the ends of your "door" in and voila. The concern is will the span be flexible enough that it will bend and slide out of the tracks. So I think I came up with a solution and wondered what you all thought.

Take pvc pipe and cut a full length slit in the side (make it look like a C). Use bolts attached to the edges of the "door" with the hex end inserted between the gap in the pvc. My idea is that it will work alot like T-track you find on table saws and work benches. I'm assuming I'll have to fine tune the size of the "gap", but that should be easily handled by adding a washer to the screws I use to attach the pvc (bigger the washer, the wider the gap will be as I tighten down the screw). I'm thinking I'll have to hang some counter weights off the back to make sure the door doesn't crash down when being "closed". To hide the track and door you simply drop the ceiling of that space just under the level of the track.

Thoughts?
 
So in addition to my fire escapes from the other thread, I also have to make an additional roll door (we already have one real metal one that was donated). I'm thinking of using Van's idea of construction, but to move it more like a roll top desk than a roll up door. Less moving parts is always better in my book. I think once painted it should give a pretty realstic look.

The theory is simple, just make two tracks on both sides of the opening, slide the ends of your "door" in and voila. The concern is will the span be flexible enough that it will bend and slide out of the tracks. So I think I came up with a solution and wondered what you all thought.

Take pvc pipe and cut a full length slit in the side (make it look like a C). Use bolts attached to the edges of the "door" with the hex end inserted between the gap in the pvc. My idea is that it will work alot like T-track you find on table saws and work benches. I'm assuming I'll have to fine tune the size of the "gap", but that should be easily handled by adding a washer to the screws I use to attach the pvc (bigger the washer, the wider the gap will be as I tighten down the screw). I'm thinking I'll have to hang some counter weights off the back to make sure the door doesn't crash down when being "closed". To hide the track and door you simply drop the ceiling of that space just under the level of the track.

Thoughts?
I Think this sounds like a great Idea! You do want weight in the very bottom of the door to help pull it down. Real steel doors have enough rigidity that if they hit a snug spot in the track the motor can force them through it, this luan version needs weight and a loose track to make it work reliably. If I can help with pointers or whatever, just shoot me a PM.
 
Re: Store front roll up doors

Maybe you could use something like this:





According to Walmart, they are called PVC Roll-Up Blinds. You can get them in large sizes and they roll up and down like a roll-up door. I'd think that the right paint treatment, antiquing, and a well-cued sound effect could get you where you want to be. Best part is that they move like a metal door.

Alternately, you could re-purpose an old projection screen, but it might be too flimsy to really be believable when people are interacting with it.
Real ones have the roll at the top, not rolling up from the bottom as the Walmart blinds would do.
Toodleoo!
Ron Hebbard.
 

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