“Ok, it would not be a
PAR Can if there was not a risk of electrical
shock! It practicly says that on the label.” - Chris R. Ubinger
I was just playing around with a Kupo
lamp cap handle today. Bought them in bulk really cheap for an install and while it did not fit well on my own lamp caps due to it being a different brand, they did still work well. The vendor was telling me that they have to sell
PAR fixtures now with a
screen over the
lamp cap opening as the only way to get UL listing for the
fixture no doubt due to similar problems. They have to sell it with the
screen which they recommend to the customers that they just remove if not replacing it with the removable lamp adjusting knob. Don’t know why UL would require a cap when other companies such as TMB or Thomas and even Penn Fabrication don’t need to have them, but it’s a valid objection.
www.moonlightusa.com Look for the
PAR Can exploded Pictorial. Very cool clip on lamp swivel tool given it fits the cap of you can. Even if it does not match the opening, it still functions for my needs in keeping the bulk of snow out of the cap. Takes me back to some old
Colortran PAR fixtures that had a handle that allowed you to swivel the entire cap in relation to the can. Nice fixtures.
“Yes - the
PAR can did have an earthing strap that was in good condition and correctly attached.” - Mayhem
I have found a constant problem on
par cans to be that the earthing/
ground wire while there becomes loose far too frequently in even if connected still being a high resistance connection in not doing any good. Always good to check to see if the
rivet on the
ground is loose and moves when changing lamps. When loose replace or in my case, I use a actual green grounding screw from the normal electrical industry and a stainless steel top lock
nut that firmly locks that grounding ring into place. This with a high temperature
ring terminal works well.
“not using high-temp
wire? I dont know if that matters for par56's......” - sound_nerd
hmm, How hot can a 500w lamps get anyway???
“The positive and negative are reversed?”
Bi-pin lamps don’t have a positive and negative, or in AC
power terms, a hot and
neutral.
I’m beginning to wonder how many people on this forum even have a
PAR 56, or
PAR 64 using the same lamp
base. By the way as described to me, this 16ga solid core
wire was pushed
thru the opening in the lamp
base pin hole than covered in shrink tubing.
Jeremy is getting close, touched on the subject but needs to think less about specific details in heat and more in general on how someone solved a problem they had.