What paint do you use on your stage floor?

What paint are you using


  • Total voters
    70

Les

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Feb 24, 2004
Location
DFW, Tx.
My guess would be that a preference toward flat might be lighting related. The more gloss (satin and above) will be more durable by nature.


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josh88

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I was only a letter off! I thought it was you les but then something didn't seem right and I went with Len haha. I haven't voted because on tapatalk I don't even see the poll so I'd be one more to satin. I started with flat to keep down floor reflections. But after moving to satin I haven't noticed much of a difference really and it's worth it for the added durability.


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gafftapegreenia

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Michigan
I guess I've always used flat because I can grab it premixed from the shelf. But now that I know what to ask the paint department for, I'm going to try satin next time I'm able.


The couple times we did black in college it was a gloss or semi gloss porch paint. No idea on brand.
 
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This is what I use: Tough Shield® Floor and Patio Coating TS-3000, Satin
2014-05-09 15.52.32.jpg


Its acrylic satin and comes with a clear base that they fill up with a ton of color to get to a really dark gray. Makes finding rogue gaff a bit easier. Stuff cost 30 bucks a gallon... but... I only paint each of my stages once a year. It holds up to tapping, road cases, Marley taping, clogging, riser sliding, boom moves, and just about whatever other type of abuse you see in a road house. It mops clean and does not have that "grippyness" that most flats do. Half the price of tough prime and personally I think its better.

What it really comes down to is how many times you paint a year. If you paint the deck per production and have to go back to black at the end of each show, buy something cheap and latex. If you only want to paint once a year, go acrylic and do it right. Its going to cost more, but you get what you pay for.
 

NickVon

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07003
I remember seeing a TouchPrime competitor paint made by PRG on the forums some time in the last 2 weeks. Can't find the thread now. Am I miss remembering, or can someone point me in the right direction?
 

JohnD

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The stage was a semi-gloss black when I came in which led to an awful amount of reflection. We searched for over a week to find Flat Black Porch and Floor, but nobody would mix it for us. We wound up going with Black Satin Porch and Floor from Sherwin Williams, which actually ended up more of an eggshell sheen.. It's held up pretty well and cut down on the light bounce.
 

Les

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Joined
Feb 24, 2004
Location
DFW, Tx.
The stage was a semi-gloss black when I came in which led to an awful amount of reflection. We searched for over a week to find Flat Black Porch and Floor, but nobody would mix it for us. We wound up going with Black Satin Porch and Floor from Sherwin Williams, which actually ended up more of an eggshell sheen.. It's held up pretty well and cut down on the light bounce.
I was going to say.
The bases (not the tint) are what determine the sheen, and I've never seen Porch & Floor bases in anything other than satin or gloss which is why nobody would mix it for you (because they couldn't). This is likely due to the fact that outdoor porch paint needs to resist wear - a trait that diminishes as you go down in sheen. It's designed to accept crystalline silica to address traction issues, but that obviously doesn't help matters for stage use.
 

Luke Holliger

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Jul 14, 2014
Location
Fort Wayne, IN
To add to this conversation:
I am currently in the processing of testing paint products vs hardboard in my venue. We just finished a full replace of all our old Masonite surface and I am working hard to ensure that the paint is right. I have scrap cuts left over from the install and each has a different paint product on it. The 4 that I currently am testing are Roscoe Tough Prime, Roscoe Color Coat, a new formulation of the Tough Prime that is still in development, and PPG Breakout. Each test surface was prepped by wiping them clean and then allowing 24 hours to rest to ensure that there was no moisture in the hardboard. I then covered each surface with 2 coats of each test paint and left all 4 to cure for 72 hours. This morning I put a strip of Pro Gaff, a strip of spike tape, a section was painted with another water based paint, and then all of these have been left to sit for 24 hours. Tomorrow I am going to peel up the tape that is on each to check adhesion, and repeat the process with the second layer of the misc paint. I will also recover the water based product with the original sample and repeat the process again. (I am still waiting on a few sample products from rustolium)

At this point, I am very impressed with the PPG product. It had the smoothest coverage and looked very clean when it dried. I am hopeful that it will hold up to all the tests the rest of this week.
 

Pie4Weebl

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New York City
I'm not sure this is too far off topic for this thread, but I have a concrete shop floor to paint, what do you guys like for that purpose?
 

gafftapegreenia

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Michigan
I'm not sure this is too far off topic for this thread, but I have a concrete shop floor to paint, what do you guys like for that purpose?
Just a good quality sealing. Any paint comes up over time and then you get trapped in a painting cycle.


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BillConnerFASTC

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Joined
Jan 30, 2010
Location
Clayton NY 13624
To add to this conversation:
I am currently in the processing of testing paint products vs hardboard in my venue. We just finished a full replace of all our old Masonite surface and I am working hard to ensure that the paint is right. I have scrap cuts left over from the install and each has a different paint product on it. The 4 that I currently am testing are Roscoe Tough Prime, Roscoe Color Coat, a new formulation of the Tough Prime that is still in development, and PPG Breakout. Each test surface was prepped by wiping them clean and then allowing 24 hours to rest to ensure that there was no moisture in the hardboard. I then covered each surface with 2 coats of each test paint and left all 4 to cure for 72 hours. This morning I put a strip of Pro Gaff, a strip of spike tape, a section was painted with another water based paint, and then all of these have been left to sit for 24 hours. Tomorrow I am going to peel up the tape that is on each to check adhesion, and repeat the process with the second layer of the misc paint. I will also recover the water based product with the original sample and repeat the process again. (I am still waiting on a few sample products from rustolium)

At this point, I am very impressed with the PPG product. It had the smoothest coverage and looked very clean when it dried. I am hopeful that it will hold up to all the tests the rest of this week.
No report? Would be nice know what you found.
 

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