Which Way do you tilt?
- Thread starter gafftaper
- Start date
Chaos is Born
Active Member
Traitor800
Active Member
You almost never want you blade to tilt toward your fence, by doing that youve effectively pinched your piece of wood between the blade and the fence and theres no way for it to escape upward so if the wood binds bad stuff will happen, like the board shooting straight back at you. If you excess cutting table is on the right side of the saw, which it normally is then you want your blade to tilt to the left, that way you can rip a miter down the side of a 4x8 sheet of ply.
I have to agree with Traitor. A right tilt blade is a total pain, especially when manufacturing smaller molding peices etc. Let's say your'e ripping an inch wide piece of MDF that is 3/4" thick and you're putting a 45 degree angle on it. The top of your blade is going to be extremely close to your fence making it difficult to use and effective push stick. < eg. one that wont break as soon as the mdf starts to kick back.> With a good Biesmeyer fence you will be able to move the fence to the left side of the blade , if the need ever arises.
Ok, staying with the Table Saw topic.. what about fancy accessories. Do you have them? Do you use them? Can you live without them? Do you use another tool instead. I can easily blow over a grand on the four items below. I can see reasons to buy all of them and I can also see other ways to do the same job without them. How do you feel about these.
Fancy miter gauges?
Sleds? (the table saw kind, not the snow kind Van)
Sliding table extensions?
Dado blades?
I'm currently thinking, Buy the fancy miter gauge, build a home sled jig for 90 degree cuts, forget the sliding extension just have portable rolling support stands, and Dado on the router table. Opinions?
Fancy miter gauges?
Sleds? (the table saw kind, not the snow kind Van)
Sliding table extensions?
Dado blades?
I'm currently thinking, Buy the fancy miter gauge, build a home sled jig for 90 degree cuts, forget the sliding extension just have portable rolling support stands, and Dado on the router table. Opinions?
soundlight
Well-Known Member
Chaos is Born
Active Member
sleds are easy enough to build
a dado blade is probably a good idea though not just cause of your table saw but if you have a radial arm saw (some newbie is going to be radio alarm saw?) it helps on that tool as well
the dado blade will pay for its cost in router bits you burn up the first week of having some big project that needs dadoing.
miter gauges? miter saw for small stuff, circular saw and a home made straight saw guide for sheet goods
table extensions depends on what you are ripping down and space you have available
a good 8' table covered in maso will do the job, but it will also be a little more permenant than movable rollers
a dado blade is probably a good idea though not just cause of your table saw but if you have a radial arm saw (some newbie is going to be radio alarm saw?) it helps on that tool as well
the dado blade will pay for its cost in router bits you burn up the first week of having some big project that needs dadoing.
miter gauges? miter saw for small stuff, circular saw and a home made straight saw guide for sheet goods
table extensions depends on what you are ripping down and space you have available
a good 8' table covered in maso will do the job, but it will also be a little more permenant than movable rollers
Panelling jigs < sleds> are easy enough to build, as are tenoning jigs etc. I'd spend the money on a good counterweighted, air sucking, power interlocking blade guard.
Get a good Stacking dado kit, no wobble blades, < especially if you plan on using them on a radio alarm saw>, a feather board < also called finger board> retatining kit is a good investment.
Seems to me, most of what a table saw does in a scenic shop is rip, while it's nice to have all the bells and whistles that go with a Uni-saw, I think you biggest investments should be for safety and material handling, ie a really big receiving table, rollers etc.
Get a good Stacking dado kit, no wobble blades, < especially if you plan on using them on a radio alarm saw>, a feather board < also called finger board> retatining kit is a good investment.
Seems to me, most of what a table saw does in a scenic shop is rip, while it's nice to have all the bells and whistles that go with a Uni-saw, I think you biggest investments should be for safety and material handling, ie a really big receiving table, rollers etc.
Yeah that's kind of what I was thinking. I'm in the great situation of having one shot to buy all the toys I want. At the same time, I don't want to waste money on fancy accessories I'll never use. I can only think of few times that I could have used some of these cool accessories and usually those situations could be solved by the use of smaller tools like a skill saw. Like you said... mostly it's about ripping.
By the way it looks like my power situation is going to "force" me to upgrade from a 3 HP to a 5 HP table saw. How Sad.
Logos
Well-Known Member
Now a saw table has a motor , can you spell motor, a motor ignores coriolos effect and makes the blade spin any way you want. The motor is driven by electricity, can you spell electricity, I'm sure you have elctricity even if you do measure it in British Thermal Units or whatever you imperial types use.
(For the literal people out there I am aware that that is a measurement of heat not electricity.)
Yeah a missile, I can just see bits of 42x100 flying through the air and punching interesting holes in walls, other sets and passing carpenters.
42X100 !! How big do you build set's down there? The size of the saw blade to cut something that thick... You guys never cease to amaze me.
I think Logos just cussed me out in metric.