Wire safe?

Hi thanks for this. I am not planning on doing any wiring as I have no theater to do that in at this point. My lighting Dimmer Rack and board and lights are now in a storage unit due to the COVID and closure and sale of the theater building that my theater group used to operate out of. But this is good information to know for the future. Thank you
The hard part of teaching by words and line diagrams is for the teacher to know the student "gets it", and is one of the reasons we don't see many 'step by step' directions posted about electricity, rigging, and Things Needed Engineering Review (TNER-instant acronym!) so much of what I post is background or 'why' rather than 'how'. I also believe that when somebody understands the 'why' they are better at seeing the logic behind the 'how'.

I wouldn't expect you to wire the theater, but knowing what you'd need to correctly repair a fixture, and be able to recognize poorly done, prior work are good things for the long haul. And with any luck and many vaccinations perhaps we'll be discussing those particulars sooner rather than later.
 
Is it possible that Lowes would have the right gauge wire for me to make my own cables. Making my own cables is something I am scared to do as I am very afraid of what will happen if I wire them wrong or backwards. I do not want to catch anything on fire or make anything explode.
Not even worth trying when the answer is only $11
Socket and Whip
The 36" length means no splicing needed, replaces everything from the the lamp to the plug, just add your own sleeve.
 
Hi,
I have a par 64 (I think- still learning to names of everything) woth really old wires. No exposed wire, yeat, but it looks like only a matter of time. Is this safe to use?
Thanks!

After thought on the topic.

SeeFactor Rain Light PAR 64ACL c.1972 Neal Diamond Tour; Lamp:120PAR64/VNSP(6V. - ACL.) Sylvania #14987.

A few years ago Nook the LD' for PLSN did an article about the invention of the PAR 64 Can and PAR Can in general. A few photos' might have been from my inventory as with help in research.

Your fixture appears to be a seel Altman PAR 64 (not verified), in wiring for series usage for ACL lamps. New PAR can lamp socket, grounding work and project done.
 
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Your fixture appears to be a seel Altman PAR 64 (not verified)
Looks like the same crud-wire that was part of the socket assembly in all my 80's vintage Altman cans. After awhile it would start cracking like that. Also, the ceramic bases were screwed together and often the screws would fall out and the ceramic sections would fall off leading to a big surprise when you reached your hand in to rotate the bottle during aiming! Ended up hitting them all with high-temp GE silicon. Eventually yanked them all out and replaced them with "modern" (as in the 1990's) sockets that were pop-riveted together much like the modern (2020) replacements.
 
Never had a socket un-screw. Or might have, but easily noted in lack of problem, and noted and replaced during equipment service call yearly. Service call even now in testing... the lamp socket should be able to support the lamp with a light in-air bounce, and be easily removable in not stuck.

On those bases with screws that I could take apart with the screws, I could resurface or bend the terminals tighter for more use. But a not missed detail as modern quality lamp sockets such as the Sylvania/Osram #F598100/48" with it's aluminum cage in general lasts longer.
 

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