Wood substitute for low budget paneling

I’m confused by what look the OP is going for. If he wants a sense of old, distressed wood then the foam solution works, but he was originally talking about using regular boards which would not be distresses.

If the desired look is undistressed lumber, I would consider the idea of using some sheet goods (1/8 inch Luan) . If depth is needed, I would simply attach a 1x1 along the edge to show depth ( or some other material)
 
Can I ask why? I was looking at that for a show I'm planning for - I thought the foil backing would make a good bounce surface to uplight the backdrop.
For use as a Scenic piece the foil doesn't stick well to anything, dbl. stick, contact adhesive etc. at when it does stick it often, not always, tends to peel away from the foam.
I think it would be a great bounce with really cool texture!
 
For use as a Scenic piece the foil doesn't stick well to anything, dbl. stick, contact adhesive etc. at when it does stick it often, not always, tends to peel away from the foam.
I think it would be a great bounce with really cool texture!

Ah, that makes sense. Yeah, I was going to use them for my village silhouette I posted in a different thread a while back - freestanding in front of a drop. Nice to know I'm not totally boned :dance:
 
Hmm, Yeah, I'd still use Blue foam, or Pink Foam. I would NOT use styro-foam; I only use that in very specific scenic circumstances. If recycle-ability of the flats is tantamount then use strips of Double stick Carpet tape <several 2-3" long> along the length of each strip of foam. If you are not roughing up the surface of the foam then you may want to brush on a coat of 4# Shellac to act as a primer for whatever paint you coat the foam in. It will keep the latex paint from peeling. You could use VSSSD but that would probably leave too much texture and would ramp the costs up.

Do not buy the foil backed foam that they sell at a lot of home stores. Get the stuff that is raw foam on both sides. You can usually find it at home stores, sometimes Insulation suppliers will have a better price and larger sizes; like 10 or 12' long sheets. When Ripping foam always be careful to make sure your saw and run-off tables are clear and clean. If you get cock-eyed at all the blade will grab the foam and sling it right back at you. When that happens it can burn the heck out of your fingers and it hurts like hell when you get hit. Only have 1/8" of blade above the surface of the foam, you want to use as little of the blade as possible.
Thanks I will check on this and test it out.
 
@Cineruss is there a reason you couldn't use shorter pieces of wood? I'm thinking you ought to be able to scrounge up a stack of old wood pallets for free and use the slats. They would definitely have character and texture!
 
I’ve 2 thoughts.

Although it looks like you have decided against ripping 2x4 lumber, I thought I’d mention that dimensional lumber can be very reactionary and may pinch closed on the blade or twist in a way that it rises above the blade which can lead to kickback. On a shorter piece it might not be a problem but a full length stud would be scary. As you mentioned, the bandsaw is a better choice.

On the foam, all we had available was the foil faced type. Turns out it peels off fairly easily. It might come off in a couple or 3 pieces but it does come off. IIRC, ours also had a clear film on the other side we peeled off as well since we needed them to be reversible.

Michael
 
@Cineruss is there a reason you couldn't use shorter pieces of wood? I'm thinking you ought to be able to scrounge up a stack of old wood pallets for free and use the slats. They would definitely have character and texture!
I thought about that but for the amount needed I dont think there is enough and it needs to look clean.
 
I’ve 2 thoughts.

Although it looks like you have decided against ripping 2x4 lumber, I thought I’d mention that dimensional lumber can be very reactionary and may pinch closed on the blade or twist in a way that it rises above the blade which can lead to kickback. On a shorter piece it might not be a problem but a full length stud would be scary. As you mentioned, the bandsaw is a better choice.

On the foam, all we had available was the foil faced type. Turns out it peels off fairly easily. It might come off in a couple or 3 pieces but it does come off. IIRC, ours also had a clear film on the other side we peeled off as well since we needed them to be reversible.

Michael
We dont have the tools for ripping lumber in that fashion. It appears the foam would be the best way to go at this moment.
 
I’ve 2 thoughts.

Although it looks like you have decided against ripping 2x4 lumber, I thought I’d mention that dimensional lumber can be very reactionary and may pinch closed on the blade or twist in a way that it rises above the blade which can lead to kickback. On a shorter piece it might not be a problem but a full length stud would be scary. As you mentioned, the bandsaw is a better choice.

….

That's indeed sometimes the case, and it is a very good caution to heed. A riving knife (which most if not all new table saws come equipped with, usually as part of the guard support system) is a big help in preventing that sort of trouble. Practicing proper, safe technique with any power tool is always essential, and for ripping stuff on a table saw that includes avoiding standing in line with where the wood could kick back. Even a light, little bit of wood that kicks back raises one's heart rate awfully quickly!
 
That's indeed sometimes the case, and it is a very good caution to heed. A riving knife (which most if not all new table saws come equipped with, usually as part of the guard support system) is a big help in preventing that sort of trouble. Practicing proper, safe technique with any power tool is always essential, and for ripping stuff on a table saw that includes avoiding standing in line with where the wood could kick back. Even a light, little bit of wood that kicks back raises one's heart rate awfully quickly!
@DrewE and @Cineruss If you think a table saw can kick back, you don't want to be in the line of fire when some bozo inserts a piece of lumber less than 12" long it a decent sized, floor mounted, thickness planer clearly labelled NOT to be used for planing any stock shorter than 12".

This was back in my high school daze. Our carpentry shop was on the second floor over our auto shop. Our carpentry shop was approximately 100' x 60'. Our high school was erected in the early 1900's with the two shop wings ( Carps over Auto on the west side and Arts and Painting over LX and Machining on the east side, added in the 50's) [our high school was two city blocks wide with one street interrupted by our school and continuing on the the other side]

The entry door to the carps shop was centred on the 60' width with a clear center aisle down the center and a large, butch, floor mounted thickness planer located approximately 80' in from the door, the grades 9 and 10 equipment and benches on the south side and the grades 11 and 12 equipment and benches on the north side. The entrance door from the corridor was close to 4' wide by close to 7' tall and constructed of heavy solid wood, glued and laminated, in the ways of the 40's / 50's with a thick laminated glass window including a steel screen between layers, about 4' AFF and continuing up to well over 6'. Basically, this was a solidly built door hung on four stout hinges and secured by multiple latches.

The thickness planer was definitely the real deal from the 1950's with heavy cast input / output tables and accepted lumber up to at least 3' wide. (I planed a 30" wide table-top while I was a student in grade 12.)
When the aforementioned 'bozo' attempted to plane a piece of 1 x 3 or 1 x 4 pine less than 12" long, the noise was horrific and it was a good thing all students and teachers were safely within their shops on either side of the centre aisle.
What was left of the pine flew approximately 60' and embedded itself in the ~2" door having only descended approximately 3" from the height of the thickness planer's exit table. At least it hit the door below window height. The senior shop teacher called the office and sprung a student from the photography classes who arrived with cameras in tow and took multiple photos of the thickness planer, the inside of the shop door with the short length of chewed wood still in place post impaling the thick door AND the outside of the door where there was an obvious bulge. The chewed piece of wood was removed to permit safe egress then further photographed before being signed by the "Bozo" and screwed to the wall inside the carp shop directly above the door.
Yep! You most assuredly don't want to be in the line of fire when a butch, heavy, cast-iron, floor mounted thickness planer burps and expectorates a chewed chunk of wood. Our school board invited every shop teacher in the city to come and inspect the door, the weapon and the projectile first hand, up close and personal.
Things you learned in high school. Who'da thunk! @Van @Amiers @egilson1 & @What Rigger? You'll probably appreciate this as well. Maybe even @GreyWyvern too.
Toodleoo!
Ron Hebbard
 
XPS and EPS - blue or pink styrofoam or white head board - are quite flammable and give off noxious gasses when they burn. The foil faced stuff is usually polyiso and is not flammable. That's part of reason it's used for roofs. Just in case you care about fire hazards and/or complying with fire codes.
 
@Cineruss is there a reason you couldn't use shorter pieces of wood? I'm thinking you ought to be able to scrounge up a stack of old wood pallets for free and use the slats. They would definitely have character and texture!
For the cabin in "Dixie Swim Club" I had the bright idea of "let's just pick up some free wood pallets, take them apart and use it for wall planks for the interior". I had the whole crew mad at me by the end of the day. We were in a rented space and had to work outside. The pallets were assembled with rink shank nails, a lot of them. A WHOLE lot of work...... but it looked great!
Your pallets may vary, but don't count on it.
 
XPS and EPS - blue or pink styrofoam or white head board - are quite flammable and give off noxious gasses when they burn. The foil faced stuff is usually polyiso and is not flammable. That's part of reason it's used for roofs. Just in case you care about fire hazards and/or complying with fire codes.
Really?
I always use a flame retardant additive in Scenic paints but the Owens-Corning spec sheet lists XPS Pink foam as tested to ASTM E 84 by UL . I did find a rather hilarious video of a guy performing his own flame test. He melts a bunch of Pink foam with a torch then declares it flammable even when it self extinguishes...

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I prefer FR-1 you can actually find it at retail paint stores... Now I have to remember which one here in the PDX area... but we used to buy it over the counter. you can also get it at Rosebrand. There is an inset on this RB page for Rosco's PA paint additive. It is also very good but usually a bit more expensive.

https://www.rosebrand.com/shop/product.aspx?id=307

Thanks - I bet the guys at Powell Paint will know, if they don't have it themselves.

Appreciate it.
 
I'll post the code requirements. Having been tested and received a score does not assure it can be used on stage. You can measure a door but that doesn't mean it fits - only that you know the size.
 
Like Bill said:
upload_2019-9-26_18-55-17.jpeg

You will find similar warning on most foam sheeting products. These products are engineered to be enclosed inside a fire barrier, not out exposed to the stage and audience.
 
You will find similar warning on most foam sheeting products. These products are engineered to be enclosed inside a fire barrier, not out exposed to the stage and audience.

What about when completely covered by Rosco FoamCoat or equivalent product? I know the code reference Bill mentioned basically just says, "Don't use foam..." without any exceptions, but it seems like there are a number of ways it could be done with a reasonable level of safety.
 

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