A male XLR connector, either 3- or 5-pin, with a 120 ohm, 1/2 - 2W, resistor soldered across pins 2&3, plugged into the output of the last DMX device in the line. Easily built oneself (see http://www.bigclive.com/dmxtest.htm), or available for purchase from many manufacturers, one example: DFD Base Model, or (a fancy one with a "DMX-signal present" LED indicator: DFD Deluxe Terminator).
The terminator is required to prevent reflections from causing data transmission errors on all DMX streams, except those ending with an ETC Source Four Revolution® or SmartPack, which cleverly switch in the resistor if they sense nothing plugged into their DMX out port. See also this thread: http://www.controlbooth.com/forums/lighting/9116-dmx-termination-plug.html.
For more information, see the "Dr. DMX" article, Why Terminate?.
Steps to build one's own:
1) Obtain a 1/2 W, 120 Ω resistor. (Available from any quality electronics component dealer: Allied, DigiKey, Mouser, Newark, etc.)
2) Solder the resistor between pins 2&3 of a Male XLR (5-pin or 3-pin as appropriate) connector.
DL's Photobucket
3) Reassemble the connector and LABEL IT CLEARLY, as it will look just like an un-wired male XLR connector otherwise.
The terminator is required to prevent reflections from causing data transmission errors on all DMX streams, except those ending with an ETC Source Four Revolution® or SmartPack, which cleverly switch in the resistor if they sense nothing plugged into their DMX out port. See also this thread: http://www.controlbooth.com/forums/lighting/9116-dmx-termination-plug.html.
For more information, see the "Dr. DMX" article, Why Terminate?.
Steps to build one's own:
1) Obtain a 1/2 W, 120 Ω resistor. (Available from any quality electronics component dealer: Allied, DigiKey, Mouser, Newark, etc.)
2) Solder the resistor between pins 2&3 of a Male XLR (5-pin or 3-pin as appropriate) connector.
DL's Photobucket
3) Reassemble the connector and LABEL IT CLEARLY, as it will look just like an un-wired male XLR connector otherwise.