ETC SmartBar 2 Mounting

[zmb]

I have been looking at putting together a new lighting system for my junior high (nothing has been committed yet), and the SmartBar 2 looks like the best option to replace the existing EDI SCRimmer Stiks for which replacement parts have been hard to find and even replacing some parts we haven't got some to work. However, the only mounting options with the SmartBars is on a stand or with c-clamps where then the fixtures bolt into the bar. The existing dimmers are mounted above the batten with a pair of custom batten clamps that leave room to hang an instrument underneath the dimmer bar. The issue that I am worrying about with the SmartBars would be having to mount the hanging underneath the batten with the c-clamps, taking up valuable room to hang instruments and when I had to place an instrument where a SmartBar is hanging, having to remove the c-clamp and get out a custom bolt assembly. Has anyone here used SmartBars in an essentially permanent installation or know of a comparable product that's above DJ quality? I am looking at a dimmer strip/pack system so that I can use the existing 1 phase, 120V, 20A twist-lock connectors on most battens and negate the need and cost to pull wiring for a rack-based system.

 

[derekleffew]

...The existing dimmers are mounted above the batten with a pair of custom batten clamps that leave room to hang an instrument underneath the dimmer bar. ...

I see no reason why one couldn't use the 4.5" long, 1/2-13 bolts with the head up, on top of the bar and the c-clamp below it to "overhang" the dimmer strip. Then hang fixtures from the batten as normal. Am I missing something?

Normal:


Overhung:


(Not the best Photochop job , but hopefully you get the idea. Of course you'd have the SmartBar right-side-up, although I don't think there's any prohibition against using it upside-down. The only restriction is leaving 1" of airspace on all sides.)

 

[MPowers]

We recently did an install of 120 six dimmer smart bars in a Science Center.
The Building has P1001 strut: installed on 8' parallel rows about 20' high in all the exhibition areas. We mounted the bars "overhung" to the strut using the ETC supplied bolts straight down to spring nuts in the top channel. The instruments actually hang from the lower channel of the strut, not the bars.

 

[sarahsliefie]

and when I had to place an instrument where a SmartBar is hanging, having to remove the c-clamp and get out a custom bolt assembly.

The Smartbar2 has 3 hanging points as well as a point for each of the fixtures. so you do not have to worry about disconcerting the bar when moving a fixture. The old Smartbasr only had the extra connection point in the middle. The new ones have the two extras, on each end. With the holes for connection points you can hang these any way you want. We use these for all our lighting positions in the house and they work amazingly. We have made hangers to put these all over the place. they can go anywhere you want them.

 

[zmb]

We have made hangers to put these all over the place.

Do you have pictures of your hangers or how complicated they are and would they cost to build?

I see no reason why one couldn't use the 4.5" long, 1/2-13 bolts with the head up, on top of the bar and the c-clamp below it to "overhang" the dimmer strip. Then hang fixtures from the batten as normal. Am I missing something?

These would be for a semi-permanent installation and I would be slightly worried about them slipping down and potentially over tightening the c-clamp.

 

[derekleffew]

...These would be for a semi-permanent installation and I would be slightly worried about them slipping down and potentially over tightening the c-clamp.

A Mega-Clamp solves the slipping down part, and as for over-tightening the C-Clamp, don't you have that any time a C-clamp is used?

I suppose one could use a half-coupler that works with 1/2-13 hardware, but there may not be enough space between the top of the batten and bottom of the raceway to get a C-clamp on. A Mega-Claw might work, but probably not worth the $60/pair expense.

Perhaps something like a Munsen Ring, but forged not cast, and of steel not brass. Still seems a long way to go to solve a non-existent problem.

 

[zmb]

Thanks for filling me in Derek, probably will just go with the c-clamp route. Just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing anything while in the rough idea phase.

 

[starksk]

It should be noted that while there are sites that mount SmartBars and SmartBar2s in a permanent manner, they are listed as a portable device. As such, the only listed alternate method of mounting not custom designed at the factory is the C-Clamp. The decision of how to best mount the unit is ultimately up to you and your AHJ. It is up to the site to determine how portable devices are to be mounted to be in compliance with local codes.

(In short, C-Clamp is probably the easiest way to go.)