You get what you pay for. Attached is the information you need to have to select and order tempered hardboard. This defines what you are looking for in properties. The Big Box stores all carry the worst possible grade (Class 5) by default. You have to special order anything better. You have to verify it upon receipt (don't trust them to ship the right thing). 1/4" Sierra Pine Medite II or Medex products seem to be good products and are orderable (albeit, with some lead-time) - they are in the range of Class 1 & Class 2. I consider it a modern day replacement for the
Masonite Duron WR, which, at one time, was used on many professional stages. Investing in a good quality top layer is prudent, if properly maintained it can last twenty or more years. What damages a good quality floor material is moisture (from leaking roofs or wet paint -- damp mopping should not affect it) and impatient techs that try to drive nails or staples into it in lieu of using sand/shot weight bags or improved
stage screws to secure scenery. Teach people how to properly anchor things to the floor and your floor will last longer. Charge them for it if they do it wrong. And charge them twice as much as the last time if they repeat it,
etc. Eventually, they will learn.
As to the floor finish, I find that the Madison Chemical Company Gemthane STC (
Stage Top Coat) with their recommended Gemthane MG-201 Sealer primer makes for a very tough finish that won't
peel off the
face of the hardboard. If properly maintained the finish can last five-to-ten years.
The constant repainting of the floors is typically due to people painting directly on the
stage floor in lieu of installing a scenic
drop cloth and painting it instead. Yes, the
drop cloth takes time (Labor + Materials = Money), but it saves having to constantly refinish the floor, or worse, replace the floor. Discourage anyone from painting on the floor. Charge them (a lot) for it if they do. And charge them twice as much as the last time if they repeat it,
etc. Eventually, they will learn.
Oh yeah, don't forget about user's that want to tap dance on your floor. One answer: NO. Insist that they lay-down a protective layer of dance vinyl (
Rosco, Harlequin,
etc.) or additional tempered hardboard. If you want to damp the clackity-clack sound, then the cheap Big Box store hardboard will do nicely (as it flakes apart). If you want a brighter, crisper sound, then the harder (
ANSI Class 1 or 2 ) hardboard may be more appropriate. A 1/8" layer that is temporarily secured with
gaffer's tape will suffice to protect your floor from tap shoes.
Glitter can be a problem, too. It can get stuck / embedded in the cheaper (softer) hardboards and cheaper (softer) paints (two good reasons to use harder hardboard and better paint). First answer is:
NO GLITTER! Back-up plan (should it be introduced onto your
stage): Is to clean it up immediately (and charge them heavily for the clean-up), being sure to vacuum-up as much as possible (maybe even Q-Tip swab the cracks and screw heads). The longer it stays around, the more it gets crushed into the surface and tracked around your
theatre. Don't forget to clean the lights, battens, and
soft goods if the glitter got tossed upwards, otherwise it will migrate back to the floor and 're-infect' it.
Speaking of infection, a clean
stage that has been regularly damp-mopped is a healthier
stage. Keeping the
stage free of tiny granules of grit and dirt (and the occasional glass shards, staples, tacks, and wood shavings / sawdust) will keep the floor finish from becoming marred and scarred. As dancers perform, they sweat and in many performances they leave sweat beads all across your floor. If they are doing modern dance they may be sliding or rolling on the floor surface. They both deposit contaminants and
pick-up skin diseases and bacteria left by others. During dance shows frequently damp-mop with disinfectant to keep the floor
clear of debris, germs, and possibly blood (nicked skin, unexpected bloody noses,
etc.);and then immediately dry-mop it to keep from being slippery. A good quality floor surface will make this an easier task. A spongy porous floor will just be a breeding
ground for biological contaminants.