@Debra P. Holmes In my amateur days in the 1950's I learned to orient the lower horizontal seams two feet above the floor where most of them were concealed by couches, furnishings, kitchen counters, refrigerators and stoves, et al rather than up high where lighting called more attention to them. 1.5 or 2.0 inch white masking tape NEATLY APPLIED wrinkle free in continuous lengths prior to painting pretty much concealed any remaining exposed seams and was quick to sever with a sharp razor knife on strikes rather than ripping it and making it more difficult to conceal next time.
@gafftapegreenia SANDING drywall compound!?? The folks cleaning and maintaining your lighting instruments must've maintained a stock of anatomically correct dolls and stuck pins in them after a few hours of convection coating your FEL's or 750T12's and baking dust onto your reflectors.Our standard procedure is drywall compound. Sand and paint.
In high school we’d Dutchman our Broadway flats. I don’t recommend it.
@Debra P. Holmes Not only a grand idea but affordably CHEAP too! (And with zero dust to clean up.)Turning them over, now that's a grand idea! Thank you all for your thoughtful suggestions! I looked at the other thread, as well. I appreciate you sending me that way.
@Debra P. Holmes Another thought or two for you.Turning them over, now that's a grand idea! Thank you all for your thoughtful suggestions! I looked at the other tread, as well. I appreciate you sending me that way.
@gafftapegreenia SANDING drywall compound!?? The folks cleaning and maintaining your lighting instruments must've maintained a stock of anatomically correct dolls and stuck pins in them after a few hours of convection coating your FEL's or 750T12's and baking dust onto your reflectors.
Toodleoo!
Ron Hebbard
@kicknargel "a drywall sander with dust collection"Who let a lighting guy in this forum, anyway? When we have to do this on stage, we use a drywall sander with dust collection.
I've dutchmanned, spackled, and used masking tape. Masking tape is my favorite, but as mentioned in other threads, it'll really show itself and also wrinkle when you paint it, because it absorbs the water in the paint differently than the wood around it. A trick I was taught to overcome that is to "paint" the tape first with simple elmers glue. It takes paint much better after that and then from the audience you can't see a thing.
For smooth drywall joint-compouinded joints, try (first) teaching your crew to use a 12" joint knife & work carefully, and (second) use a damp sponge.
+1 for wet sanding. No dust, no mess, just easy and clean. And +1 to this as well,For smooth drywall joint-compouinded joints, try (first) teaching your crew to use a 12" joint knife & work carefully, and (second) use a damp sponge.
Indeed, the trick is teaching people how to use the minimal amount of compound on a seam, and not just glob it on because “it can just be sanded down later”.
Do you know how many sheetrock "installers" I've had to teach that to? My pet peeve with joint compound / platster is the use of too much!Indeed, the trick is teaching people how to use the minimal amount of compound on a seam, and not just glob it on because “it can just be sanded down later”.
@jonliles As a retired member of two international unions and three locals I can feel lightning bolts about to descend upon me for typing this: If you want to see mudders who know how to efficiently apply tape and fast setting drywall compound with their "banjo's" as smoothly as possible and exactly when to make a second pass if / when required, WATCH an experienced team of non-union rockers sweep through a building and LEARN. The non-union crews, especially if / when they sweep through a site between midnight and four a.m. when few general contractors and inspectors are on site, know tricks with four and six step stair units and adjustable length stilts that their unionized kin would NEVER utilize. I'll NEVER forget watching two guys rock and mud a 100' x 17' wall with two layers of 5/8" fire-rated panels with staggered joints on the layers using a combination of 4' x 8' and 4' x 10' panels and with precious little waste and VERY little sanding. I was running BX and flex through walls for a non-union general contractor who was a close friend for decades (he's now well into his eighties) and I had to pay close attention to avoid the fellow towering above me and galloping along on stilts especially when his feet were elevated higher than my head. I'll NEVER forget those two guys and how fast that wall went up in ONE night.Do you know how many sheetrock "installers" I've had to teach that to? My pet peeve with joint compound / plaster is the use of too much!
You can thin it a little. Just enough to make it “paintable.”@Eric W. Do you thin the glue out? If you do, what ratio water to glue?
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