6x22 long barrel Leko Ellipsoidal 1K bulbs (FLV vs FEL)

These bulbs work for 7 days, 12 hours a day off a large 120v genny, a year. That's it and yes, I could say that half die at the end of this. I'm sure the genny has been 120v every year. I've been googling the heck out of this 220v vs 120v bulb/power thing. I'm still not sure I get it since there is debate out there.
 
Once again, great information here. I'm still not sure about the whole FLV, FEL, FLK, and now a FCV choice. I am quite sure that I used FLV bulbs. But to purchase for this coming event, I'm still hoping for advice on which is the best to purchase. I will clean and bench focus each one of the bad boys before putting them to work this year. Perhaps even see about purchasing new reflectors if that's even possible for fixtures this old. Thank you all for your knowledge. Much appreciated.

I'm gonna suggest changing instruments to clean-up all the issues you are having. Maybe a S4 19deg with EDLT lens tube. If 19deg isn't small enough you will not be able to use the new EDLT lens tube. I'm thinking the EDLT will help overcome the wattage difference issue your having.

As for solving the current issue: Is there a higher lumen output option? Like daylight vs. sunlight.
 
I'm gonna suggest changing instruments to clean-up all the issues you are having. Maybe a S4 19deg with EDLT lens tube. If 19deg isn't small enough you will not be able to use the new EDLT lens tube. I'm thinking the EDLT will help overcome the wattage difference issue your having.

As for solving the current issue: Is there a higher lumen output option? Like daylight vs. sunlight.

at $214.00 each edlt lens tube, it's not going to happen. There is no budget for anything new. And fel t6 g9.5 base 1k bulbs are all either 27,000 or 27,500 lumens. No daylight/sunlight options. or I should say, they are all at 3200 temperature.
 
These bulbs work for 7 days, 12 hours a day off a large 120v genny, a year. That's it and yes, I could say that half die at the end of this. I'm sure the genny has been 120v every year.
Did you measure the voltage? If these were new bulbs, that's only 84 hours of runtime before 50% die. Generator overvoltage seems a likely culprit - both for the "extra" brightness, and the early death. 130 volts wouldn't be hard to have happen with a poorly regulated generator.
 
The maths says that for a 120v rated lamp run at 130v, you will get a mere 35% of the lamp life...
If the lamp is rated at 115v that will be 20%
 
These bulbs work for 7 days, 12 hours a day off a large 120v genny, a year. That's it and yes, I could say that half die at the end of this. I'm sure the genny has been 120v every year. I've been googling the heck out of this 220v vs 120v bulb/power thing. I'm still not sure I get it since there is debate out there.

Was the lamp failure rate last year ( the dim year ) the same as prior ( bright) years?
 
I'm gonna suggest changing instruments to clean-up all the issues you are having. Maybe a S4 19deg with EDLT lens tube. If 19deg isn't small enough you will not be able to use the new EDLT lens tube. I'm thinking the EDLT will help overcome the wattage difference issue your having.

As for solving the current issue: Is there a higher lumen output option? Like daylight vs. sunlight.

For clarity's sake let me correct some errors here:

1) you can get narrower than a 19° with EDLT optics. The 14° lens tube is by definition EDLT.

2) Daylight lamps vs. Sunlight lamps have nothing to do with lumen output. That is color temperature. Sometimes we perceive cooler color temps as brighter, but you can have exactly the same lumen output from lamps of different color temps at the same wattage.

Carry on.
 
These bulbs say they are rated for 300 hours on the web site. I dont thing there was an increase in blow out the dim year.
Now the genny putting out too many amps could have happened but no way to really know. It's set the same every year and I assume it's a straight forward setting. But our main problem is not blow out, but dimming. So to summarize, Bench focus, clean or replace reflectors. Make sure the genny is correctly set, use fel 1k bulbs but on a 750k lamp, expect blow out. btw I use heat shield and diffusion. On the bright years I did and on the dim year, I had to reuse the previous years since the new heat shield and diffusion didnt make it on the trip to the festival. So will make sure to have new stuff with me. I think that covers it yes?
 
For clarity's sake let me correct some errors here:

1) you can get narrower than a 19° with EDLT optics. The 14° lens tube is by definition EDLT.

2) Daylight lamps vs. Sunlight lamps have nothing to do with lumen output. That is color temperature. Sometimes we perceive cooler color temps as brighter, but you can have exactly the same lumen output from lamps of different color temps at the same wattage.

Carry on.

thanks for clarifying my soupy thoughts. Still working on slowing down enought to put 110% into current task instead of 100%.
 
No way of knowing without seeing the spec sheet on the mysterious FLV, but if the LCL (light center length) of the FLV is different than the FEL, and the fixture was aligned for the FLV, then the two lamps would end up with a very different output in the same fixture. Further, if the LCL error was causing heat to be retained in the fixture as compared to projected out of it along with the light, then the lamp life would be greatly reduced as well.
 

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