Bardwell & McAlister Junior 2K

[Winson]

Hi all, I just bought a B&M junior light from eBay. My plan was going to use it as a home floor lamp. I will be replacing the old light socket with the e26, wire and put it on light stand.

The problem is the light doesn’t come with the male pin that connect to the light stand. I had been searching all over the internet and can’t find anything.

If anyone know about the light and where can I buy it, I really appreciate it. I will post the photos below show how it is look like. Thanks all!

 

[gafftapegreenia]

I’d click around filmtools.com. I don’t know the exact size of the pin needed.

 

[DrewE]

If it were me, I'd look for a piece of pipe or tubing of some sort that is (about) the right diameter, and hold it on with a threaded rod through the pipe. The end of the threaded rod going through the yoke would just need an ordinary nut and washer; the other end could be attached to the other end of the pipe in a variety of ways, perhaps the easiest halfway nice looking one I can think of being to drill a hole in a pipe cap and using another nut and washer there. An intermediate tee or cross or something could serve to attach the whole shebang to the floor lamp base...or if the pipe and rod are long enough, just attach them to the floor base as appropriate.

Probably metallic pipe would be more appropriate than PVC or ABS.

Otherwise, it looks like a straightforward part to machine if one has access to a metal lathe (and the sill and knowledge of how to operate it).

 

[microstar]

Maybe something like this?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kupo-5-8-B...574171?hash=item5b35427e9b:g:uyQAAOSwNRJcoeRH
although it says 5/8" Baby Stud. Possibly they come in different sizes and you need a Papa Stud?

 

[Winson]

I did some research and found out all the "junior" stand receiver are 1-1/8'' diameter. I can only found this Manfrotto M12 Spigot with 28mm, hopefully the the threaded pin can go through the yoke.

Appreciate everyone's help!

 

[ship]

Did this project a few times. Invented a G-38 to E-26 lamp socket adaptor for doing it. Challenge was re-wiring the fixture for Edison, cleaning/resurfacing the lamp socket and it's terminals so it would conduct properly & given the bi-pin lamp of the G-38 was non-polar (which side hot') establishing "Hot towards Hinge." Than on the adaptor to ensure it's hot wire pin was installed right, on the rear of the adaptor was written "this side to rear". That was the easy part.

Getting the thing painted in a busy shop took years.

More technically difficult was building the adaptor itself. Yes, you could remove the G-38 base and build a platform on the glide plate so as to mount a lamp socket. Or study the LCL of the two lamps, and it's possible that if you have a bad CYX lamp, you can remove the glass, chip away the lamp cement and invent.

It's possible the height of the porcelain part of the CYX lamp will be too tall to properly bench focus. I don't remember if for 2Kw or 5Kw fixture which (CYX or DPY lamp) I had to cut the porcelain down by like a 1/4", but one I did. You will know once you match up your parts to the LCL of a working lamp. Fairly easy to do a cut down on the ceramic part of a lamp's base. Diamond grinder wheel to score = not cut all the way thru. Cut thru some, but more concentrate on forming cracks going where you want them to be. Kind of like cutting rock or tile, and indeed I have not tried a tile wet saw.

On wiring, a E-26 lamp socket with SF-2 wire attached or lamp base you attach wires to either directly tinned in soldering the secrew terminal, or screw part of it bypassed and you solder +850 degree iron directly to the terminal. Ensure all screws on that E-26 lamp socket are tight as last step. Need about 2" of SF-2 wire hanging below the lamp socket.

Strip the wire & solderto the cut lead in wires factory attached lead in wires to the G-38 pins. Add silica sand or puttiy in photo as insulator and start mixing up your plaster like cement. This is faster drying than porcelain so work quick and don't mix up too much. Layers is better than wasted product attempting to apply.

In cleaning up tools (putty knives or wood/plastic) and the adaptor itself. Within the first hour you can use a utility kiife blade - might get a cut or three before dull each blade surface. Have not tried Dremmel type diamond tile or grout wheels... might or might not work well or gum up. This cement drys fast and becomes really really hard - but slightly different from either stone or ceramic. Still though it will do an excellent job of gluing one ceramic housing for a lamp socket to another.

By the manual, you should be curing this adhesie in an oven after application so as to fully cure it. I have never done so. If you want you can heat gun it otherwise probably . For the most part you are using it for ceramic to ceramic epoxy and not for a high temperature application where it needs to become as hard. Also, if using the adhesive on say a 2Kw or 5Kw applicaton as per repair use, they as lamps might get hot enough to do the oven cure.

Anyway that's the way I went about Downgrading a 2K Fresnel to a A-19 incandescent, LED, Color Changing, or it you want to do 400G30sp lamp... say, just add a lamp socket extender to it and it should bench focus the same.

Note final photo is not correct - it shows the DPY 5Kw adaptor inside a 2Kw fixture. Seat height is different. Get your seat height correct, and as with the Leko to A-19 conversions done in the past.. they work really well.