Lights not going out completely

lbcfrank

Member
I have a Leviton MC 7016 lighting controller and 3 Techni-Lux 4-Channel Dimmer Packs. (A001, A005, A009)
2 or 3 of the par cans stay very dimly lit when in program (scenes) mode. Can't seem to get them to go off completely unless I cut the master to 0. What should I be looking for to correct this?

Frank Chyz
Liberty Baptist Church
Ellenboro, NC
 
Dirty pots or board calibration. Since the master will take them down, then we know it's not a trim problem. As it sounds like more than one channel is effected, look for a programed submaster to be the source.

Often, slightly moving the control when it is near 0 may cause the lamp to extinguish. That control, or "pot", would be the one.
 
Thank you, John. Those 2 or 3 par cans stay on (although extremely dim) even when X and Y are down to zero. They only go out when I kill the master. Are you saying that if I move those pots up slightly they may go out? How would I go about cleaning or fixing a defective pot?

Frank
 
Thank you, John. Those 2 or 3 par cans stay on (although extremely dim) even when X and Y are down to zero. They only go out when I kill the master. Are you saying that if I move those pots up slightly they may go out? How would I go about cleaning or fixing a defective pot?

Frank

First check to make sure nothing odd is loaded in memory. Best way to do that is to default the board (clear memory) back to factory settings, then run the board in it's most basic single scene mode (X scene), with a 1 to 1 patch. (Fader 1 = Channel 1) See if clearing the memory got rid of the problem. If not, note which channels are not at zero, and which faders are in control of them. next, move those faders up to about 10% and confirm that those channels have come up to 10%. then take those faders back to zero. Apply slight pressure side-to-side on the controls and see if the lamps extinguish. If they do, then those faders need cleaning. If nothing stayed on when you were using scene X, then switch to scene Y and repeat the test.

Faders can be cleaned using a contact cleaner designed to clean volume controls. Sometimes moving the fader a few times around the trouble spot will fix the problem, sometimes they need a squirt of cleaner, and in some cases the controls need to be replaced.

Remember, the diagnostic stage is your most important stage, and is usually the only one that does not require money to be spent.

If you have got bad faders, you should send the board in for service. The dissassembly is not for the faint of heart as most two scene boards like that have the controls soldered into a board that covers everything, and requires a lot of patients to effect the repair.
 
Leviton/NSI MC70XX and 75XX boards are notorious for fader issues, either due to the board's unusually long service life and/or poor quality faders, depending on your perspective. I've owned a couple of these boards, and if it's new enough, fader replacement should be relatively inexpensive. If it's older than a certain age, it's possible that the faders in use are no longer available, which means that all the faders need to be replaced with a new part. This can be a prohibitively expensive repair.
 
if the area has dust or fluff in it then that fluff can build up at the bottom of the fader, stopping it reaching the bottom mark take a look with a magnifying glass and if necessary pick it out with a long needle or dental pick
 
Also, make sure that the preheat setting is set to Zero. I ran into that before on the MC7525 board.
 

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