I need to make some new push blocks/sticks for the table saw. There are so many patterns I’ve used/seen, any reason to prefer one over the other?
Guess I'll be the safety guy and say that the bottom style does nothing to prevent your hand from sinking into the blade. Middle style is the safest in my head. I've seen shop made ones where the distance between the bottom edge and the grip is at least 3 1/2" to avoid running your hand through the blade even when its up at its max height. Granted you trade stability when you go higher so maybe its a wash.
I've been doing carpentry work for the last 65 years, both scenery and building a number of houses and apartments,, without any of these fancy things. At the first such job I had, the boss told me, "Blades are sharp. Keep away from them." It's always worked for me.
I don't know, looks to be up about $10 a sheet compared to last year.Plywood is cheap.
I've been doing carpentry work for the last 65 years, both scenery and building a number of houses and apartments,, without any of these fancy things. At the first such job I had, the boss told me, "Blades are sharp. Keep away from them." It's always worked for me.
For rips under 1", push til you're a foot from the blade, then pull from the other side.Wonder what you do for rips less than an inch.... I used to be fine with an inch and no push stick. I've gotten older so now I use one for anything under 2". trying to get wiser as i age.
Right! Not my shop, not my table saw, but yeah, looked like old rulers with a handle. I'll grab a pic tomorrow if I can get one out of 'lock up'.yall had metal push sticks?!
That has the risk of nipping the blade (riving knife notwithstanding) or allowing the work piece to twist (downward pressure of the teeth notwithstanding). I've certainly seen it done plenty but I've always been told to only ever feed from the "front" with downward pressure on the workpiece.For rips under 1", push til you're a foot from the blade, then pull from the other side.
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