Installs quick connect snake advice needed

[ashenash]

Hi,

First time poster, 30 years in the biz.

Ive read all the threads re:multipin quick connect snakes and cant seem to find an answer. So here's my situation.

I'm doing an install for a medium sized church (multipurpose room) Their desire is to have a rolling rack that can be stowed away after each use. To make this work, I'll need an easy way to disconnect from the board or stow the snake in the rack. Easy enough that it will actually get done by amateur operators.

As I see it the options are
1. permanently installed 24x4 100' snake with elco or similar multipin quick connect at the board
2. snake on a reel that lives in the rack, fan stays connected to the board
3. some combination of the 2 to give more flexibility to the placement

Can anyone out there recommend a good solution ? Budget is of course the limiting factor, no digital snakes please. Medium durability, reliable connectors. Brand and supplier info welcomed

Thanks in advance
Bert

 

[coldnorth57]

The church at my theatre uses a multipin quick connect snake at the board end why, so the stage helpers can set up with just one connaction, so much easyer. so I think the choice 1. permanently installed 24x4 100' snake with elco or similar multipin quick connect at the board, is the way to go.

 

[avkid]

Ramlatch and several Wireworks offerings are far superior to Elco.
RAMTECH - Ramlatch Multi-Pin Audio Connector
Wireworks - Latching Options

 

[fx120]

The only multipin connector I would trust amatures not to totally thrash on the first mating would be a MASS connector or something like a FK-37. Elco, ramlatch, CPC's, ect always seem to have issues even with even professionals misaligning the connectors and breaking pins. MASS connectors have the pins recessed deep enough that it's harder to get the connector misaligned by the time the pins are in contact with anything, and the FK-37, well you'd need a pair of pliers to snap one of those pins but they're only good for 12pr.

Whirlwind USA is the original designer of the MASS connector and the primary supplier, however they tend to be on the expensive side. My estimate for a 100' 24x4 trunk with W3's plus a W3 fanout and W3 stagebox is probably somewhere in the range of $2000. With the trunk hardwired to the stagebox and mults only on the fan the price would probably drop to about $1400.

CBI is also a great company with quality products, and they also use MASS-equivalent connectors (they call the W3 by M122, but it is pin-compatible) and are a little less expensive than Whirlwind for a given product.

Audio Snakes, Audio snake, MASS, VEAM, disconnects, 20 channels, Pro Sound, CBI Multichannel Systems

Whirlwind / Catalog

 

[museav]

The only multipin connector I would trust amatures not to totally thrash on the first mating would be a MASS connector or something like a FK-37. Elco, ramlatch, CPC's, ect always seem to have issues even with even professionals misaligning the connectors and breaking pins. MASS connectors have the pins recessed deep enough that it's harder to get the connector misaligned by the time the pins are in contact with anything, and the FK-37, well you'd need a pair of pliers to snap one of those pins but they're only good for 12pr.

Interesting as many touring pros I've talked to seem to feel exactly the opposite about MASS versus Ramlatch and others. I find the latching action more positive on MASS connectors but have had users make bad connections with them as well. However, I have used MASS, Ramlatch and Wireworks multipins all with generally good results (Wireworks offers two latching systems, I prefer the BLS latching approach for wall plates).

 

[Chris15]

I tend to be a fan of LK, but not sure how they'd fit you your budget considerations.

I'd be very hesitant to use any connector that relies on anything plastic to make sure it aligns properly when inserted. An example would be a Burndy with plastic shell. With the abuse occasioned by well meaning volunteers, you'll be replacing connectors in a year or two, perhaps even less time. It becomes a false economy.

And a little trick from those of us who make cable for touring etc. Threadlock is your friend. Once you've verified the connector is wired properly (ie. cable tested), add a little thread lock to connectors that have cylindric barrels. It means if someone grabs the body instead of the locking ring, you've got a chance of the connector staying together rather than it undoing and twisting the cable.