Setting up Shop

F

Fxguy

Member
I plan on doing some theater / scenery construction work as well as general woodworking projects and would like to set up the shop in my garage to be able to work on both. I also must still share the garage with both cars. The garage is approximately 19 feet by 19 feet so I have plenty of space. I will most likely need to have workstations that roll out to the center for use and that can be rolled back against the wll when not in use. Another area I am seeking suggestion on is basic tools. I bought a Ryobi Compund Miter Saw and Table Saw as well as a Craftsman Drill Press. I really need to replace the Table Saw because I can't get very straight cuts with it. So my aside from a table saw, any other suggestions? I think I need a Dust Collection system to help keep the garage as clean as possible.

Any suggestions on a Table Saw? I was thinking of going with a Delta Table Saw and Fence system but then also I could go with a Festool system . Anyone have any thoughts on this?

Thanks in advance!

Tim
 
Personally a Dewalt table saw has served me great. It cuts strait has a lot of motor power.

A dust collection system is great for the air quality and keeping the placeclean but you might want to invest in a heavy duty shop vacuum that can handle more dust and bigger things.

As for other tools you can never have enough drills to go around.

Just my .02 Patrick
 
Thanks for the reply!

Also, I've worked in a few scene shops throughout my years in school starting in high school and then the local drama guild as well as at college. For the most part, a scene shop and a woodshop aren't that much different from what I can remember. I am sure there are a few details / differences and mention of them would be much appreciated as well.

Thanks!
Tim
 
I just bought a portable porter cable table saw this summer and it has quickly become my favorite saw. it doesn't compete with the stability of a huge legitimate unit, but the stand that it comes with wheels easily, folds up real nice, and when set up is the one of the sturdiest I've found. On top of that it cuts like butter and haven't had a single problem after using it heavily the past few months. I would highly recommend it.

also I'd suggest sending for a Rockler catalog, some of their stuff is expensive but they have all kinds of dust collection systems and tons of other things in there that are real useful. http://www.rockler.com/catalog/catalog.cfm

also depending on what you're into and will be making a bandsaw might be pretty useful too.
 
Make sure you put breaks on all your saw station wheels, especially a band saw and table saw (if it doesnt have it already). I can think of a lot of very nasty things happening to a table saw while cutting and rolling around at the same time... I would make sure to get a cordless drill/driver, apparently the ones that are this neon green color are really nice...(I think its the Ryobi LiIon system) I prefer dewalt but thats just me. Other useful things to have: A nice big bench with plenty of work space, probably a couple kinds of vices as well, lots and lots of clamps, Something to use as a board un-twister, a router, possibly a router table.
 
Not on the tool front, but bright and well-planned lighting makes a huge difference in the working environment. I'd recommend starting with lots of fluorescent on the ceiling, and add on flexible task lighting in your main work area.
 
Thanks for all the advice!

I love theater people...posted the same thread over on a woodworking site and not getting nearly as many good ideas!

As far as a cordless drill, I bought the Makita Impact Driver / Drill combo set about two years ago and never looked back. The best $199 I have ever spent! It came with the impact driver, drill, flashlight, two battery packs and charger. The batteries charge in 15 minutes and I almost NEVER have to wait (unless I forget to keep one on the charger).

I have a Ryobi Router and Router Table as well as an 8 foot workbench at the very back of the garage with drawers on the right and a drawer and shelf on the left with about 4 feet of empty space in the middle where my current Ryobi table saw is parked.

I was planning on spending between $500 and $1,500 on a table saw (a nice Delta or DeWalt or maybe even a Saw Stop table Saw). The Saw Stop saws, for those who haven't seen them, have a safety feature that actually stops the blade and drops the blade below the cutting surface when it comes in contact with skin. You probably will end up with a BAD nick but it will save your finger and save you from stitches.

Check it out at: SawStop - The World's Leading Maker of Safe 10-inch Table Saws

I agree on the lighting. Currently there are only two Incandescent bulbs, one on each side, plus two 4 foot fluorescents above my bench. I plan on replacing the incandescent bulbs with fluorescent giving me much better lighting. I also plan on coating the floor with an epoxy covering to help keep the area squeaky clean.

I agree I could probably use a good Band saw and I definitely need more clamps! What is this board un-twister you speak of? I've never knew you could do something like that. I kind of just figured if it was warped then you were out of luck.

Great conversation guys! Keep it coming.

Tim
 
I almost forgot to ask.

Do you guys think a Table Saw is necessary or could I get away with having a track saw instead?

A guy at the local Woodworking shop demonstrated a Festool track saw as an alternative to a table saw for getting straight cuts.

Any thoughts? Most of the shops over on The Wood Whisper site I see that have a Festool also have a table saw. I haven't seen one that has abandoned the table saw in favor of a track saw instead.

Tim
 
as far as I'm concerned I couldn't live without a table saw. And not to be obvious but remember that if that saw stop ever activates you have to replaces the whole unit and likely the blade as well. It is certainly a nice idea and a great safety thing and it is catching on at some schools (I know Cornell has one in their shop) but I've been doing this for ten years and haven't cut my finger off yet and don't plan to, so I'd rather spend the money on a different saw. and again, not to be obvious, but while the epoxy floor is a great idea and will look nice too they get really slippery when wet. probably things you thought of already, but just in case.
 
You are correct that the "unit" needs to be replaced. But I believe the units were around $80
a piece which is still way less than a trip to the emergency room. And if you never cut off your finger then you'll never need to replace it. I agree nothing replaces safety, but it is nice to know that it is there. I'm not in favor one way or the other. I had considered the epoxy slippery issue, I was thinking of doing the epoxy and then placing rubber mats at all stations or maybe even covering a large portion with interlocking rubber mats. That way I can still easily clean up spills but have the safety and comfort of a rubber surface.

Tim
 
The table saw is my most used stationary tool. I have had my Delta for the past 15 years. I like it, but I had to replace the motor once. The fold-away DeWalt would be great for you if you need to keep things movable. As soon as you buy one, immediately invest in one or two Freud (or similar quality) blades. It's the best investment you can make in your new table saw. As for the track saw vs table saw decision, it depends what you would want to use it for. If it's just straight cuts, you could probably get away with a track saw. If you eventually want to do more fine woodworking (cutting dados or mortises, etc.) then you will definitely want the table saw.
 
I agree that a table saw is essential. For straight cuts in plywood I use a skill saw and a guide. I have made cabinet grade cuts with guides. What I do is take luan and and cut it a little wider than the saw base plus 3 or 4 inches. I also cut a 3 or 4 inch second piece that has to have one edge factory. Apply the narrow piece on top of wide piece using both wood glue and staples. Then take the saw and cut a new edge by using the new guide. It means it works for that saw only. It saves you from buying a seperate panel saw and can used on angles or square. It also saves measuring an offset that metal guides require. I make an array of lengths for different cuts.
 
Fxguy said:
A guy at the local Woodworking shop demonstrated a Festool track saw as an alternative to a table saw for getting straight cuts.
Any thoughts? Most of the shops over on The Wood Whisper site I see that have a Festool also have a table saw. I haven't seen one that has abandoned the table saw in favor of a track saw instead.
Click to expand...
The TS55 is a great saw and beats the snot out of traditional panel saws.
However, the raw power provided by table saw is not easily replaced.
 
josh88 said:
as far as I'm concerned I couldn't live without a table saw. And not to be obvious but remember that if that saw stop ever activates you have to replaces the whole unit and likely the blade as well. It is certainly a nice idea and a great safety thing and it is catching on at some schools (I know Cornell has one in their shop) but I've been doing this for ten years and haven't cut my finger off yet and don't plan to, so I'd rather spend the money on a different saw. and again, not to be obvious, but while the epoxy floor is a great idea and will look nice too they get really slippery when wet. probably things you thought of already, but just in case.
Click to expand...

The other thing to consider tho is that a saw stop is a d*** nice table saw. really nice fence, really powerful, nice cutting surface. My old school had 4, and after changing schools and not using one, Its well worth the money, even if the safety never activates.
 
One more thing to remember. If you do get a saw stop, the table saw remains the most dangerous tool in the shop (in my opinion). Kickback is still a major problem, and it needs to be respected. A 2x4 getting shot thru your stomach is gonna hurt if its on a DeWalt or a Saw stop. Actually possibly more on the saw stop, I think it has a bigger motor...
 
Ill vote for the saw stop as well. We have one at my school and its wonderful. But we found out the hard way that you have to make sure you have dry wood. We tried to put pressure treated thru it one time and it wasn't to happy. There is a bypass so if you have to cut wet it is possible. Just remember to turn it on. :)
 
If you have the money, buy a decent table saw. By Decent i'm refering to a Uni-Saw or Saw-Stop or even a high end Jet. A small contractors saw like a little dewalt or Ryobi is fine for making rough cuts it 1/4" ply but if you need to rip 2x even the very nice Dewalt contractor saw will bog down on you. Your work time can be cut in half with a good table saw. We have a local Festools distributer, and I've had all the stuff pedaled to me. I think if you are an anal retentive cuckoo clock maker the Festool system is great, as is a Shopsmith system. For real wood working at a competent speed I say stick with traditional tools, not hokey systems.
 
Just for the record, I love band saws. Only ever worked with a very old one in my old shop (from back when they made this stuff to last) and a newer Delta model... However, for cutting all sorts of odd things, its perfect. Also making larger scrolls and such. Love em. Also old school milling machines. Oh, and the water jet my new school has. Ever wanted to see steel be treated like molten butter?
 
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