Side Arm Alternatives

[StradivariusBone]

We host a "Prism" concert for our music department annually and what that entails is performers occupying all areas of the theatre, not just the stage. This presents some unique challenges as far as lighting is concerned, but I'm trying to find a safer way to downlight two zones that are almost underneath our catwalk. I've got the front light taken care of with a 12" side arm on a leko from our coves and a shoebox dimmer in the projection booth.

The previous TD set up a cheeseborough attached to the railing to extend a 2' piece of schedule 40 out beyond the side of the catwalk so he could get downlight on top of the zone below. There's about 1' of a metal mesh that juts out at the bottom of the catwalk and the trick is to get the fixture mounted beyond that so you avoid casting odd shadows.

Last year I ran a safety through the pipe to the fixture, but I'm still not 100% happy with this setup. Am I being overcautious? I was looking at this and thinking it might be a better solution.

 

[techieman33]

We host a "Prism" concert for our music department annually and what that entails is performers occupying all areas of the theatre, not just the stage. This presents some unique challenges as far as lighting is concerned, but I'm trying to find a safer way to downlight two zones that are almost underneath our catwalk. I've got the front light taken care of with a 12" side arm on a leko from our coves and a shoebox dimmer in the projection booth.

The previous TD set up a cheeseborough attached to the railing to extend a 2' piece of schedule 40 out beyond the side of the catwalk so he could get downlight on top of the zone below. There's about 1' of a metal mesh that juts out at the bottom of the catwalk and the trick is to get the fixture mounted beyond that so you avoid casting odd shadows.

Last year I ran a safety through the pipe to the fixture, but I'm still not 100% happy with this setup. Am I being overcautious? I was looking at this and thinking it might be a better solution.

I would have no problems with the previous method used. If your hanging on a horizontal pipe then I don't think that the safer side arm really does anything for you. It's designed to help when hanging on a vertical pipe. Here are a couple of other options if the pipe to cheeseborough connection is bothering you.

https://www.thelightsource.com/products/mega-sidearm-fixed-126
or build your own
https://www.thelightsource.com/products/mega-coupler-pipe-adapter-41

 

[StradivariusBone]

Well that's good to hear! I'm not super familiar with "cheeseburgers" and wasn't sure if this was acceptable practice. I just know I wouldn't like a 1.5" pipe to the skull. Is there any preference given to placing the joint above or below the horizontal pipe? There will be a single S4 PAR hanging off it.

 

[SteveB]

Well that's good to hear! I'm not super familiar with "cheeseburgers" and wasn't sure if this was acceptable practice. I just know I wouldn't like a 1.5" pipe to the skull. Is there any preference given to placing the joint above or below the horizontal pipe? There will be a single S4 PAR hanging off it.

It's not going to matter, Cheeseboroughs are standard scaffold assembly devices and can certainly hold the weight of an 13 lbs S4 Par.

 

[danTt]

It's interesting to me that you feel a 2' sidearm is more stable than a 2' pipe cheeseboroughed off the catwalk. I trust a cheeseborough much more. I'd suggest drilling a hole in the pipe to bolt a safety to, to give you some security in case something slips. If theres a way to get two points on the pipe I'd feel better as well (either the back railing of the catwalk, or maybe a diagonal to the higher railing? Not sure how your catwalk is structured.)

 

[StradivariusBone]

It's interesting to me that you feel a 2' sidearm is more stable than a 2' pipe cheeseboroughed off the catwalk. I trust a cheeseborough much more. I'd suggest drilling a hole in the pipe to bolt a safety to, to give you some security in case something slips. If theres a way to get two points on the pipe I'd feel better as well (either the back railing of the catwalk, or maybe a diagonal to the higher railing? Not sure how your catwalk is structured.)

I don't have a 2' sidearm, just 12" Altman ones that I've only used from horizontal pipes, but I need more than 1' out from the rail to get the proper downlight, hence the cheeseborough scenario. I just haven't used them that much and wasn't sure if this would be accepted practice. I've thought about using a longer pipe, but unfortunately the back of our catwalk is a short wall. Just a piece of angle iron that goes vertical to support the bridge. I guess the pipe could rest on top of the wall, but the weight on the other end would want to pull it up from the wall without another point to secure it to.

 

[danTt]

You'll be fine with only one point, I regularrly hang two lekos off a single 24" sidearm with minimal slippage. The two points are more important if you were going to be hanging a mover from this position rather than a 7.5 par/15lb source 4.

 

[z2oo]

You could always find something like a 4' pipe and angle it so you can get two points of attachment to your catwalk pipe. Granted, you don't get a pipe sticking straight out over your performance area, but you get the piece of mind of better safety.

 

[BobHealey]

I prefer doing 2 attachment points with cheeseboroughs, just because all the ones stocked where I do tech work are the swiveling variety.

 

[BillConnerFASTC]

I think key for me is don't rely on unrated cast iron cl-clamps. We know better today. Many good options mentioned.

 

[Cryophallion]

If you are REALLY concerned, then I would use a Clancy Cross Grid connector for the join. But you are barely cantilevering anything here, it should be just fine. It's well within the RWL of the hardware.

 

[gafftapegreenia]

I feel safe using a cheeseborough in this application, with a safety cable of course.

 

[Cryophallion]

To clarify, I was referring to the cheeseboro being just fine.... but are absolutely normal.