Wagon brake size?

jds10011

Member
Likely another silly question. It always seems like the wagon brake options are either too flimsy or too big. For example, here is a current setup with the brake on a block protruding above the platform surface:
Photo on 1-2-24 at 10.01 PM.jpg

I believe these are the 800lb ones from BMI. The platform is 2x6 with 3/4 ply, and internal casters add a little under an inch. What are alternatives/best practices?

Thanks as always!
 
I've tried wagon brakes so many times and I've been disappointed my entire career.

I opt for barrel/drop bolts of the smallest diameter I can justify for the piece. Drill a hole 1/8" larger than the bolt and then replace with a dowel rod, glue, trim, and sand after the show is over. I know not everyone can drill holes in their deck, but I can and so I do. They're easier to install, easier to operate (imo), and they're basically indestructible.
 
Yeah dropping pins into the deck is nice when possible. Cleaner look, and won't skid around the way a wagon brake sometimes will when the wagon gets hit with a lateral force. There tends to be a little more wobble though compared to well-done wagon brakes, because of what Rainmaker describes; you have to have the hole big enough to not be fussing with the pin forever trying to get it to drop in. And the average barrel bolt has a lot of slop between bolt and housing too, so I prefer to make my own pins from round bar, usually 3/8". I add blocking under the wagon lid so there's solid material holding the pin steady down to +1/2 from the deck (or whatever my clearance needs to be) and then drill the exact pin diameter through that and the floor. One of those drill guide accessories like the DrillMate is helpful, because the hole needs to be very plumb to function best. Chamfer the end of the pin, flare out the top of the hole in the deck a little to help the pin find it (rather than drilling the whole depth wider which adds wiggle) and graphite lube everything til the pin can slide through with gravity. When done right you can drop the pin as you approach spike and let it drag til it drops into the hole. Give it another little push if needed to set it into the narrower depth of the hole in the deck and you've got minimum wobble. Makes the shifts really smooth once the stagehands get used to it.
 
Sorry, I'm not on the set building team, but from memory it was a fairly simple spindle and lever to swing the wheel axle up and down.
 
Got a picture/drawing?
 
This is a common debate, and at some point comes down to: in the event of failure, are you more comfortable with a wiggly unit or one there for the rest of the show?
I know in the moment it's not funny, but I'm just imagining an Into the Woods with a GIGANTIC milky white who's actuators die and it's just posted up center stage for the next 90 minutes 😂😂
 

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