I would think Kerosene flame would be warmer than 3000K. somewhere in the 2500-2700k range. and you might add a touch of red or ruddy orange. Perception is reality.
The color temp is only one factor in duplicating the flame. A bigger factor has to do with the distribution of light from the spectrum of the flame. There is a sharp blue cut-off in the flame.
For example, what is the color temperature of a red LED? There is none, as the LED only puts out a point spectrum.
Whenever a tight spectrum light source comes into play, duplicating it become an art more than a science. You will probably have to err on the side of amber to get the effect you want.
A better approach might be to use a high wattage lamp at a low dimmer setting. As the incandescence of the filament drops off, the spectrum not only shifts, it contracts in visible width, much like a flame.
A better approach might be to use a high wattage lamp at a low dimmer setting. As the incandescence of the filament drops off, the spectrum not only shifts, it contracts in visible width, much like a flame.
I would just say something warm. I like using 1k fresnels at low intensities for all kinds of flame effects. now, if its supposed to be flickering, you can drop in a filmFX reel or gobo rotators, and either drop an extremely light frost or run the lens tube to make it more of a flicker. this tends to work well for me
1700 K Match flame 1850 K Candle flame
2800–3300 K Incandescent light bulb (75w, 100w, 200w)
3200 K 500 watttungsten lamp
3350 K Studio “CP” light
3400 K Studio lamps, photofloods, 500 watt photolamp
4100 K Moonlight, xenon arc lamp
5000- 5400 K Horizon daylight
5500 K Photographic Daylight
5500–6000 K Typical daylight, electronic flash
6500 K Daylight, overcas
9300 K CRTscreen