Automated Fixtures Used Intellabeams

[Les]

I have an opportunity to buy 12 used Lightwave Research Intellabeam 700HX's locally for $550. The seller bought them at an auction years ago and said he has "tested" a few but they didn't respond. Whether testing just includes plugging them in or actually connecting them to a board, I do not know. So the working condition of these lights is largely unknown, but the exteriors are nice and look as though they came from at lease a semi-permanent install. I feel like I really can't go wrong at $550 for all of them (I could probably sell them individually for parts and at least break even if worse came to worse.) He said a lot of the cords had been cut off, but I saw the cords in the photos, so they're probably just missing connectors.

Does this sound like a good deal to you guys? I feel like the likelihood of all 12 being DOA (and for the same reason) would be highly unlikely. If I could even get 4 to work, that seems like a pretty good deal.

Here was his answer to a question about the cords:
"Hello, Do you know if any of the units with cords will power up? When you say the cords have been cut off do you mean the plug on the end is cut off or the whole cord has been cut off? Please email me with more info. Thanks."

A: "The ones with cords will not power up. I created a plug on one that was cut off and it did not power up so I've given up on them and I just need to get rid of them. This lot cost me $2600 but that's another conversation. I'm just ready to move on and need the space."

I'm crossing my fingers that he just doesn't know what he has. Not to say that I am looking to rip the guy off -- he posted them at $550. It's a 'no returns' deal, and I won't get a look at the insides until they're mine unless he lets me open one up at the warehouse, but even then, I'd only have a vague idea of what to check for (burned components, blown fuses). I guess they could all have bad power supply boards as far as I know. I also know that those run in to some serious money and probably wouldn't be worth fixing ($350 for a transformer).

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And here's a cute puppy:

 

[Kelite]

Though these fixtures have been out of production for years, they have a good track record of durability and have many loyal supporters. Though issues may be found with many if not all units, if you have time, skill and patience to dive into them- you may have a good deal here.

If/when you know replacement parts are needed, you may want to contact Don or Robert at LightParts for pricing and availability. Also, Apollo is authorized to make any b/w and color High End System gobos to bring these units back to like-new condition.

LightParts.com - The Parts and Repair Source for Entertainment Lighting
(512)873-7106

Product Search - high end for High End Systems gobos
(260)497-9191

 

[Les]

Thank you for the info, Kelite! These have really got me thinking. Aside from learning to program them and using them on shows, they'd also be a great tool for learning electronics/repairing moving lights. I've done minor electronic repair but really would like to dig deeper. I saw a YouTube video where a guy removed the lamp circuit and put a quartz lamp* in. Not as bright, but worked like a charm. Maybe one day, an individual could even buy an LED module to retrofit in.

*Actually, it was an incandescent desk lamp:

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v6a4g8aTJmgA

I'd use a quartz lamp in the original reflector, paying close attention to both LCL as well as thermal management.

 

[Kelite]

THAT was funny-

 

[Les]

I don't know what's funnier, the video or the song! But it does go to show what you can do with some spare time and an expendable amount of labor . It's cool to see that these CAN be retrofitted! Though it does void the UL listing so sole responsibility of safety rests with the owner.

 

[Kelite]

<Though it does void the UL listing so sole responsibility of safety rests with the owner. >

Yes indeed.

You seem pretty creative, I look forward to 'the rest of the story', as Paul harvey used to say...

 

[soundlight]

If you can get them up and working they're great fixtures. If you use the intended lamp, they're incredibly bright and slice like a knife. Gobos and colors and position change in a blink of an eye thanks to the motors and control. They have great gobos for just a static wheel, and the colors are wonderful as well. I'd jump on that lot right away and get cracking at fixing them up. Used 6 of them for every one of my light shows in college.

 

[len]

$550 for 12 fixtures seems like a good deal. ASSUMING you have the time, space, skills, and replacement parts availability. You'll probably need to lay at least some of them out on a bench and break them down to find out what's wrong, then get parts and get them back to working order. The first thing I'd check is whether they have a manual setting for voltage (can't remember if the I-beam was capable of switching voltage or not). It could be they didn't power up because they were just getting the wrong voltage, or something else silly.

 

[traxman25]

I'd jump on those for that price, it's a good deal. I'd venture to guess that they aren't all dead, but that the few that were "tested" were getting the wrong power. Our cybers use a bit of a funky power setup.

 

[LavaASU]

If anyone in the AZ region is looking for some, we have some 400s and 700s we're trying to sell. Email us at LavaASU (at) gmail (dot) com if interested. They just proved to be to big storage wise for the number of shows they are needed on...

 

[PeteEngel]

Those i-beams look to be in relatively good shape. there is no telling what the insides look like unless you get the chance to open them up. The ID sticker on the back indicate that these came from the City of Houston. I know it is a big city and they could be from any department or facility but if you know anybody there you might want to ask around about a lot of 12 i-beams. usually techs remember stuff like that.

 

[TimMiller]

If memory serves correctly they were Sold off when they tore down the astro hall. I would buy the lot If it were me. I wouldn't mind buying a few off of you as parts. They are an easy light to repair and learn electronics repair. Their biggest weak spot is the connectors on the power board I soldered terminal strips on them and it made the connection much more solid. Also running them at 220 makes them a lot happier. I am here in Houston if you need any parts, repair tips etc. also I looking to buy some. Also for who ever is interested I have a stack of brand new I beam 400 logic boards for sale.

 

[Les]

I now have 6 of the 12 I-Beams in my possession (the other 6 wouldn't fit in my tiny little car so I'll be getting them later today).

First impressions is that they are in good condition - maybe some dirt/grime inside judging by the fan exhaust port. They definitely came from a permanent install and even have a paint pen mark on the lens tube showing a set focus. One has a mirror that came off the bracket, but I have the mirror. It will probably take some epoxy to get back on there - no big deal.

They are all still addressed, so I'm not surprised that nothing happened when he plugged them in. Hopefully I can get them in to a self-test mode.

One question on the power cords: The connectors have in fact been removed from some or all of these. The leads are Blue, Brown and Green. Green is ground, but out of the Brown and Blue, which is hot?

 

[derekleffew]

...One question on the power cords: The connectors have in fact been removed from some or all of these. The leads are Blue, Brown and Green. Green is ground, but out of the Brown and Blue, which is hot?

A Brit taught me this years ago: "Charlie Brown's the hot wire." Blue is neutral.

Note there are wire jumpers on the power PCB that must be moved in order to change between 100V, 120V and 230V. The correct fuse must be installed also when changing voltages. I don't believe I've ever run them at anything other than 120V.

User Manuals and other goodies are available at http://www.highend.com/support/discontinued/intellabeam_700hx.asp .

 

[Les]

Thanks, Derek!

I'm hoping for a 50% success rate on these. So far, that's looking correct. Two out of three fixtures so far have definitely been gone through. One has a power factor cap that definitely let the magic smoke out, and a bunch of ribbon connectors are disconnected (probably a never-completed repair). The PCB looks good upon visual inspection. Another has caps that look good, but the power supply board is missing. I might be able to combine the first two units to make one good light. Gobo/color/effects sections look great in all lights.

A third unit seems to have everything in place and it all looks clean. With all the DIP switches 'off', only the "motor" light turns on when powered up. Lamp and Fan lights are off and no noise from the unit. I tried setting DIP 1 in hopes of a self-test but nothing yet. [update: because it was set at 220v and I plugged it in to 120v]

Definitely will either have a few parts lights for TimMiller or candidates for a quartz/LED retrofit.

 

[derekleffew]

You may find the attached DMX DIP switch Address chart useful. Most users in the end used the "13 channel, extended mode," so that's what the chart is for.

IBeam_DMX_dipswitch.pdf

 

[Les]

Update: This is getting fun! Though the rear panel is marked 120v, I checked to see if the factory voltage selection had changed. Indeed it had been changed to 220. Switched back to 120 and 3/3 units tested so far have struck lamps! One unit self-tested beautifully and the other two I don't think I had the correct DIP setting so it didn't give me the cool light show. I will try again later. But struck lamps and motor sounds = good .

Circuit boards inside are really clean. Almost look unused (except for the two NFG units noted earlier).

Will edit this post with an update later!

-Three fixtures so far have self-tested very well.

-One fixture won't go in to self-test mode but does seem to lamp-on, home, and wait for a command.

-One fixture missing its power supply board (will be down for a while).

-One fixture has a blown power factor cap. May take the cap from the fixture missing its power supply.

-One fixture has a terminal strip melted at the voltage jumpers (apparently a common problem and easy to repair).

-One fixture has had something done to it. Not sure what, but some of the leads have been taken out of the terminal strips. Will explore this one further. I seem to remember seeing a melted terminal strip. They were probably in the process of repairing that fixture.

-Four more to go. Tomorrow.

Apparently those original LR "quick remove" terminal strips are problematic. I have found that a few of my fixtures have had them replaced by regular strips. I plan to get them all replaced. Many are OK; one (noted above) shows signs of damage and in need of a new strip. I also need to reattach one of the dichroics on a color wheel, as well as the glass heat shield on another unit. So far it's looking like mostly small stuff. A few bad fixtures, but they all (so far) have hope.

 

[TimMiller]

To re glue glass in fixtures loctite extreme repair works very well. As far as the power cord missing I have replaced them with 12awg soow cable and installed a good strain relief. The strain relief on these older units were not the best.

 

[Les]

To re glue glass in fixtures loctite extreme repair works very well. As far as the power cord missing I have replaced them with 12awg soow cable and installed a good strain relief. The strain relief on these older units were not the best.

Thanks! I was actually talking about a missing power supply board in one unit, but they all do need new cords due to being repeatedly stood on their end. Thanks for the tip with the loctite. I was wondering what adhesive to use.

All in all, I am really impressed by how clean these lights are on the inside. Of the ones that work, they all operate smoothly without hesitation. I need to figure out why one isn't going in to self-test mode. That is bugging me. Otherwise it initializes just fine.

 

[TimMiller]

The dip switches do go bad with age, try flipping them all back and forth a few times and they will sometimes unstick. I would feed the unit dmx/lwr and see if it actually responds. I have had units that have appear to start up just fine but then they will not play with the others. I have learned that sometimes when the EPROM chips get old they will retain their data correctly but when the programming runs it freaks out, best way I have found to test this is download the programming then run a read verify on the EPROM programmer and see if it passes or fails.