Using 208v with rogue LEDs

@JonCarter "The ONLY TIME"? What about when you fade down to your total black out? C'mon at Jon, you know it'd be mere seconds before our proudly self-professed "Resident Curmudgeon" @derekleffew called you out for your all encompassing, sweeping, generalization.
@derekleffew , are you O.K. lad??
Toodleoo!
Ron Hebbard.
Additionally, full blackout offers the longest lamp life and best energy efficiency. It’s a good idea to run your show at this setting as much as possible.
 
Additionally, full blackout offers the longest lamp life and best energy efficiency. It’s a good idea to run your show at this setting as much as possible.

Also helps reduce those pesky hotel “power services” fees since you don’t even need to connect the feeder.
 
Additionally, full blackout offers the longest lamp life and best energy efficiency. It’s a good idea to run your show at this setting as much as possible.
@TJCornish @egilson1 Also reduces air conditioning loads and Centravac operational costs as well. Almost nothing but benefits.
Of course there'd be the cost of all the glow tape Equity would demand.
Toodleoo!
Ron Hebbard.
 
Basically I should have never asked this question if this is where the post ended up...

Jk! But this answers all my questions. Thanks everyone!

@TJCornish The idea of implementing L14-20 is a great idea. Our PD has a handful of L14-30 outs. I have seen many mass produced L14-30P to dual 5-20R adapters made. What is your stance on this? Is overloading say 12/3 and melting your wire the main concern here?

We have 100' sections of 10/4 cable with L14-30 connectors and will run that to say FOH and split it to two 20amp circuits. I've known this is technically allowing 10 amps excess but typlically all the cable is 10/4 and then it hits a quad box via 10/4 to 4 Nema 5-15R PER leg, so 8 120 outlets total of the initial L14-30.
 
Basically I should have never asked this question if this is where the post ended up...

Jk! But this answers all my questions. Thanks everyone!

@TJCornish The idea of implementing L14-20 is a great idea. Our PD has a handful of L14-30 outs. I have seen many mass produced L14-30P to dual 5-20R adapters made. What is your stance on this? Is overloading say 12/3 and melting your wire the main concern here?

Hopefully you aren't seeing 'mass-produced' adapters - implying a factory-made part. I have no doubt shops wire up whatever is convenient, but it would be disturbing if these were actually manufactured on any significant scale.

My concerns from greatest to least are the following:
1. Killing/hurting someone
2A. Extreme property damage
2B. Extreme personal liability
3. Legality of the "solution" and risk of having the show inspected and shut down due to illegal wiring
4. Lame workmanship on the part of the company doing this.

We have 100' sections of 10/4 cable with L14-30 connectors and will run that to say FOH and split it to two 20amp circuits. I've known this is technically allowing 10 amps excess but typlically all the cable is 10/4 and then it hits a quad box via 10/4 to 4 Nema 5-15R PER leg, so 8 120 outlets total of the initial L14-30.

The rules are very clearly specified in the code:

- Receptacles must NEVER be fed from a supply greater than the receptacle's rating - e.g. a 20A regular circuit can't ever be run on a breaker of more than 20A (the exception is 15A receptacles can be fed from 20A breakers based on the assumption that there is demand diversity on the circuit but this doesn't really apply in professional power distribution)
- The purpose of the OCPD is to protect the DOWNSTREAM wiring as much as to protect the load (think starting a fire inside a wall). It is NEVER acceptable to put a circuit breaker larger than 20A on #12 portable cord.
- Expanding on the above, Any step-down in wire size and/or receptacle ampacity MUST be accompanied by OCPDs suitable for the new reduced downstream ampacity.

The above leaves no wiggle room for adapters as you are describing. You must use a stringer like this to break a L14-30 (or in the case of the linked product a L21-30) down into 5-20R receptacles.
 
These are the L14-20 breakout boxes I use, made by Whirlwind USA, and UL-listed.
 

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Here's a teaser for a future review, but here is my new custom SKB-case distro from Whirlwind. 200A 3-phase, weighs less than 50lbs. More on this soon.
 

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......ahhhhhhhhhg!!!!! There is so much bad information in this thread, I don't even know where to begin. On Chauvet Rogues, feel free to use whatever voltage you like between 120 and 240v with the appropriate male connector. There is no need to change any fuses. I keep an inventory of Edison(5-15) connectors and L6-20. As for the rest of this thread, it's probably best just to pretend it does not exist.
 
......ahhhhhhhhhg!!!!! There is so much bad information in this thread, I don't even know where to begin. On Chauvet Rogues, feel free to use whatever voltage you like between 120 and 240v with the appropriate male connector. There is no need to change any fuses. I keep an inventory of Edison(5-15) connectors and L6-20. As for the rest of this thread, it's probably best just to pretend it does not exist.
Excuse me!? Your sweeping generalization is inaccurate and not appreciated.
 
Here's a teaser for a future review, but here is my new custom SKB-case distro from Whirlwind. 200A 3-phase, weighs less than 50lbs. More on this soon.
Thanks for the review, but you posted it at PSW and not also here. ;)
 

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