I should ask my teacher about it because last year we have checked the waveform of a standard wall outlet(120V/60Hz) with an isolation tranformer between the source and the scope.If it is a standard scope - don't do it. The ground lead of the probe is earth ground. Most if not all scope probes are not cat rated. Some scopes can't handle that high of a direct voltage either - especially in x1 mode. Use a Fluke ScopeMeter of a 120 series at least. You want a floating scope that is at least cat III 300vac dated. Just my advice though. I'm just not a fan of possible arc flash. Wear safety glasses at least.
I should ask my teacher about it because last year we have checked the waveform of a standard wall outlet(120V/60Hz) with an isolation tranformer between the source and the scope.
I should ask my teacher about it because last year we have checked the waveform of a standard wall outlet(120V/60Hz) with an isolation tranformer between the source and the scope.
Electro Controls operated under the name Control Lighting in Canada. There are likely a number of people here familiar with Electro Controls dimmers who could help you if you'd post pictures of what you have.
I'm not sure about what we've done, I need to ask my teacher.IF you mean you put an iso xfmr on the scope to float it then yikes!. You make a mistake like the ground lead on the hot and you floated the chassis of your lab scope to 120vac. Bad neutral - same thing even with the correct probe set up. If you have two probes of the same type, put your scope in differential mode and put one probe for hot and one for neutral, or use a differential probe. Keep that chassis grounded.
Thank you. I'll take some picsElectro Controls operated under the name Control Lighting in Canada. There are likely a number of people here familiar with Electro Controls dimmers who could help you if you'd post pictures of what you have.
http://www.controlbooth.com/forums/lighting-electrics/23328-electro-controls-dimmers-panel.html
The Electro Controls Archive
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If you don't have the paperwork on the meter still in your possession, try looking your exact model up on-line. The info on True RMS/ not True RMS should be there. If not I'd be suspecting it is NOT True RMS. My guess is the MSRP for true RMS meters is around $100 or more, but prices may be lower. So if it was inexpensive it may not be true RMS. Make sure it is a "True RMS" rating.
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