Yes you would. A question of if known potential problem against doing something about it with legallity of attempt to do it properly on your own if fails verses doing it properly and affording a professional solution - someone else's liability should it fail.
Good question of if possible to do this properly or safely on your own for a start. Very much gets into a banned out of liability for the website concept out of liability. My above specification of a hole no less than half it's diamater from the
edge of the surface in drilling a hole is also suspect in this way. While this is a concept I memorized from texts on structural steel engineerin in noting that 1/2dia away from the
edge - this also didn't account for the
shock loading factor in needing more space say as reasonable, the dia. of the hole in the steel away from the
edge. For a 5/16" hole, it should be 5/16" away at least from the
edge of the steel as a for instance in better refining this
safety cable at least hole on the accessory concept.
The hole or structural
point on an accessory as per acceptable norm - thing falling say 24" at most with
shock loading in falling, won't have enough speed to rip out of the hole made for it in say 16ga. steel. Safe enough in concept.
Assuming the liability of the safty cable than and what fittings are used for it. Assuming only oval sleeve
Nicopress sleeves of a proper size for the
wire rope - could be 1/16" (95#
SWL) given weight of accessory, than it falls on the shap hook.
Snap hook types in the U.S. are not rated for
shock loading and hopefully with time we will convert to the Euro type
snap hooks with screw
gate or better that are load rated. Still though for a light accessory as
snap hooked to
shackle or load rated welded ring, if not extra hole on the
yoke of the
fixture, a 3/16" to 1/4"
snap hook should be sufficient as a hook type in that link to the
fixture.
Assumig the
wire rope,
snap hook and mounting of
safety cable hole to the accessory - or hard
point such as
wire mounting the leafs of the
shutter is sufficient to mount to, it's now just a question of
wire rope fittings in holding it all together. This assuming the accessory
safety cable length isn't too long in too much distance for gravity to
play a factor in
shock loading. Even if say 36" for
safety cable to the accessory in linking the
safety cable to the mounting bar, gravity won't much
play a
role in
shock loading.
Assuming the only question now is the
wire rope crimps - not
wire rope maillable or
drop forged clable clamps but oval sleeve
Nicopress Crimps - I recommend the copper types, it's a question of the proper
crimp of them. Easy enough to train for the use of such fittings and all tools come with go/no-go gauges.
Nicopress liability also says that every year the tool needs to come in for re-calibration - this after the go/no-go
gauge. Trained people in proper use of the
crimp tool and that inspect the crimped fittings with the
gauge, plus can attest to certification of the tool if in doubt beyond gauging and training with it's use should have no worries. I would be more in doubt about the
snap hook as commonly used on
safety cables given the above.
Other options for a
snap hook. None the less in doing something for accessory
safety, trined for use of the tool and proper things done in making it proper... it won't be failing. If it does, this in what actually caused it to fail will be the least of your problems in overall failure.
Possibly cheaper or easier to buy double ended hook
safety cable from a supplier. This if not pay someone else's liabilty to drill the holes or mount the
safety cables. If the above isn't easy and
clear sufficinet, someone else should be mounting your
safety cables for you. But overall,
safety cable is easy enough for accessoies and I even do them for my Inkies.
