So Rust-Oleum came out with a “Hammered Brown” spray paint that very closely matches that of old Altman brown. Not perfect but very close. Menards carries it, otherwise it’s part #245218 from them the paint company. The pickling effect of the paint is also really helpful so as to make some black 6x12 lenses and new caps, their proper color.
Also good is that Altman in discontinuing the 360 series cap (probably got the last three,) at least on the mounting plate does pre-drill the holes for a P-28s base so it is as easy to mount as it should be without having to transfer and tap holes on the now replacement plates. That was a good thing for Altman to do in consolidating these plates into being universal now.
Bad thing is Rust-Oleum is using a new type of spray nozzle on the can. It really, really sucks. I have strong fingers yet wasn’t able to maintain pressure on the trigger sufficient that it would do a constant spray, this much less a good air brush like touch up. After the first use and proper cleaning it also clogged up an hour later to the extent that blowing it out and denatured alcohol wouldn’t fix it. I stock replacement nozzles and had a female type even, but this new nozzle is different in how it works and the replacement didn’t work. Also, couldn’t re-assemble the original clogged nozzle once blown out. Real shame in that the color and texture is a fairly good match to the old Altman color.
Note also that the paint isn’t high temperature and should only be used at best for lens trans and or the debate is out on if high temperature paint as a base coat will work under the top coat. Might if for a 500w lamp sufficiently.
On spray paint, also a big fan of Kraylon #1310 dulling spray. While working on my Olivette, the semi-gloss paint used on the outside of the fixture to touch up the really old texture paint was too’ bright. The dulling spray worked well to tone down that semi-gloss paint. The fixture doesn’t look old.. But it’s also not in a rusting condition either. With the below touch up of the reflector... Looks like it’s brand new in condition even if still old.
On that 1916 fixture, while wired up and safe, I also used a new product from Pittsburgh Paints - Ceramic formulated Acrylic Latex paint. Really hard to get a ceramic white flat paint these days... could probably get the proper paint as mentioned in Fuch’s 1929 for it which would be rated for a 1Kw Nitrogen lamp... but this as with the above Altman fixtures, they are now museum pieces in adding to the collection, and even if used as prop lights, they won’t be at full output ever again. Less than high temperature paint will be sufficient.
This ceramic based latex paint once stippled on looked amazing once done. This to replace someone in the past’s great idea to paint the reflector gloss silver. The silver was old, dirty and stained with like “Dracula” blood and other stuff. This was a necessary stippling paint job so as to restore the fixture to what it was supposed to be. The un-mixed tint base worked really well in doing so.. up until I touched the paint by accident while moving it. That’s an ultra-flat white paint to be seen in picking up instantly dirt from my fingers and requiring a touch up. Warning if using the product - don’t touch it once painted or you will leave a mark on the reflector. Expect that’s why - even if obsolete by the time of the writing of his book he went into detail about touching up the paint on a pre-spun reflector Olivette. Was probably a constant problem and or something to maintain every other year in re-painting with it and or home built gear using the same type of reflectors. Can’t beat the ceramic flat white once stippled onto the reflector. It’s intense.
Also good is that Altman in discontinuing the 360 series cap (probably got the last three,) at least on the mounting plate does pre-drill the holes for a P-28s base so it is as easy to mount as it should be without having to transfer and tap holes on the now replacement plates. That was a good thing for Altman to do in consolidating these plates into being universal now.
Bad thing is Rust-Oleum is using a new type of spray nozzle on the can. It really, really sucks. I have strong fingers yet wasn’t able to maintain pressure on the trigger sufficient that it would do a constant spray, this much less a good air brush like touch up. After the first use and proper cleaning it also clogged up an hour later to the extent that blowing it out and denatured alcohol wouldn’t fix it. I stock replacement nozzles and had a female type even, but this new nozzle is different in how it works and the replacement didn’t work. Also, couldn’t re-assemble the original clogged nozzle once blown out. Real shame in that the color and texture is a fairly good match to the old Altman color.
Note also that the paint isn’t high temperature and should only be used at best for lens trans and or the debate is out on if high temperature paint as a base coat will work under the top coat. Might if for a 500w lamp sufficiently.
On spray paint, also a big fan of Kraylon #1310 dulling spray. While working on my Olivette, the semi-gloss paint used on the outside of the fixture to touch up the really old texture paint was too’ bright. The dulling spray worked well to tone down that semi-gloss paint. The fixture doesn’t look old.. But it’s also not in a rusting condition either. With the below touch up of the reflector... Looks like it’s brand new in condition even if still old.
On that 1916 fixture, while wired up and safe, I also used a new product from Pittsburgh Paints - Ceramic formulated Acrylic Latex paint. Really hard to get a ceramic white flat paint these days... could probably get the proper paint as mentioned in Fuch’s 1929 for it which would be rated for a 1Kw Nitrogen lamp... but this as with the above Altman fixtures, they are now museum pieces in adding to the collection, and even if used as prop lights, they won’t be at full output ever again. Less than high temperature paint will be sufficient.
This ceramic based latex paint once stippled on looked amazing once done. This to replace someone in the past’s great idea to paint the reflector gloss silver. The silver was old, dirty and stained with like “Dracula” blood and other stuff. This was a necessary stippling paint job so as to restore the fixture to what it was supposed to be. The un-mixed tint base worked really well in doing so.. up until I touched the paint by accident while moving it. That’s an ultra-flat white paint to be seen in picking up instantly dirt from my fingers and requiring a touch up. Warning if using the product - don’t touch it once painted or you will leave a mark on the reflector. Expect that’s why - even if obsolete by the time of the writing of his book he went into detail about touching up the paint on a pre-spun reflector Olivette. Was probably a constant problem and or something to maintain every other year in re-painting with it and or home built gear using the same type of reflectors. Can’t beat the ceramic flat white once stippled onto the reflector. It’s intense.