Cue Light System

I've been known to string rope or Christmas lights down the lockrail for the rigging system. One string of red, another of green, hooked into whichever two dimmers are nearest and it's ready to go. For more elaborate cueing, a third set of another color can be added. You can also have a pulsing string be a warning and solidly lit string be the go cue. Or in a multipart cue, flashing green is the first go, and solid green is the second go.

I've also hung red and green PAR's at the ends of an electric and flashed those as cue lights.

Both ways are pretty down and dirty as far as cue light systems go, but effective nonetheless (and dirt cheap). Tends to be what I see tours doing too when they come through.
 
Ok.. so check this out which you can pick up at pretty much any guitar center or online. $350

It's a 16 channel DMX controller with (2) 4-Channel DMX dimmer/relay packs. This can get you 8 channels pretty easily, and if you buy another box at the store for about $120, expand to 12 channels.

Address boxes at 1 and 5 and 9. Then connect them with DMX cables to the controller.

Purchase some rope light, or any type of 120v, non obtrusive light-source that will plug into Edison outlets. However many cue lights you need. these will be them.

You can run DMX cables to locations closer to stage so not have to run multiple 150' runs of Edison cable, and then plug the lights into individual circuits.

Label the Controller USL, DSL, Conductor, Fly 1, Fly 2, LX, Audio... etc and then at the Standby, bring up that Fader. On the "GO" pull the fader down. When the light is on, you're in stand-by, when the light bumps out, you GO.


Not the most "professional" way of doing it. .But it is cost effective and reliable if done correctly.
 
Ok.. so check this out which you can pick up at pretty much any guitar center or online. $350

It's a 16 channel DMX controller with (2) 4-Channel DMX dimmer/relay packs. This can get you 8 channels pretty easily, and if you buy another box at the store for about $120, expand to 12 channels.

Address boxes at 1 and 5 and 9. Then connect them with DMX cables to the controller.

Purchase some rope light, or any type of 120v, non obtrusive light-source that will plug into Edison outlets. However many cue lights you need. these will be them.

You can run DMX cables to locations closer to stage so not have to run multiple 150' runs of Edison cable, and then plug the lights into individual circuits.

Label the Controller USL, DSL, Conductor, Fly 1, Fly 2, LX, Audio... etc and then at the Standby, bring up that Fader. On the "GO" pull the fader down. When the light is on, you're in stand-by, when the light bumps out, you GO.


Not the most "professional" way of doing it. .But it is cost effective and reliable if done correctly.
Well Thank You! This is very helpful!
 
No worries! - I was responding quickly. My thoughts usually flow much better, but I think it all made sense.
Let me know if you have questions!
 
Do you control the lights from your main lighting console or from a sport one for the SM only? How would you do this within the booth?

Generally, yes, from the main console. SM calls the cues, lighting op executes. Ion does have 4 contact closures on it though via the DB15 connector on the back. If you wire up some switches or buttons to that and put it on a 15' umbilical, the SM can trigger the cues directly through the console without having to tell the light op to execute that command.

If you have 4 mic or tie lines up to your lighting console, you can put an XLR3 connector on that cable for each of the 4 contact closures. Plug the console into Tie Lines A, B, C, D in the booth, and plug the switch or button controller into Tie Lines A, B, C, D on stage, and the SM could trigger those from on-stage.
 
I'm a huge fan of dry lines and a switch box. I usually drop a multicable on either side of the stage, and that gets me twelve circuits. With the right cable path scenario, you could also run 18 gauge cable separately to each position, which would allow you to grow it as you needed. This is probably cheaper, but more work at the outset. Combine it with one or two of http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/GEM-SOUND-SP8500-/555-17100, and you're good to go.
 
I'm a huge fan of dry lines and a switch box. I usually drop a multicable on either side of the stage, and that gets me twelve circuits. With the right cable path scenario, you could also run 18 gauge cable separately to each position, which would allow you to grow it as you needed. This is probably cheaper, but more work at the outset. Combine it with one or two of http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/GEM-SOUND-SP8500-/555-17100, and you're good to go.

Dan, you sure an outlet strip can be used like that for permanent install under NEC?
 
Dan, you sure an outlet strip can be used like that for permanent install under NEC?
Am I sure? No. Do I consider q-lites a temporary (per show) setup that is modified frequently enough to not really be permanent? Yes. If the NEC inspector showed up at my theater do I think they'd shut me down for using switch boxes like those? Probably not, especially if I showed them what they replaced before...
 

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