Falling screen door

How long is the gap between working and nonfunctional? If it's working in 1 scene then falling apart in the next, you could just pre-lube the pins then remove them during the changeover.
 
How long is the gap between working and nonfunctional? If it's working in 1 scene then falling apart in the next, you could just pre-lube the pins then remove them during the changeover.

This is a good suggestion if you can do it. Otherwise, I'd suggest slip-pin hinges rigged up with monofilament line or tieline, but that could prove problematic.
 
I did it before with bent over 16 penny nails to replace the hnge pins and then piano wire tied to the nail at the bend. Then I married the piano wire to black trick line and ran that where the line was out of sightlines. I had an empty batten over the door so I was able to pull the pins on cue just prior to the door fallig.
 
I did it before with bent over 16 penny nails to replace the hnge pins and then piano wire tied to the nail at the bend. Then I married the piano wire to black trick line and ran that where the line was out of sightlines. I had an empty batten over the door so I was able to pull the pins on cue just prior to the door fallig.

That's pretty much how my slip-pin hinge idea would work. I wouldn't have thought of using a batten to lift the pins. That's very innovative.

The nail idea is good. They will be smaller than regular hinge pins, decreasing the risk of them binding up. I have come across my fair share of no-slip slip pin hinges (mostly when the door isn't hung quite straight, but are they ever?)
 
You could try installing a second half hinge on the frame above the full hinge and use a longer piece of steel round stock so that it would always be contained and not swing around. A few small pulleys and you could route the cable strategically to a pull.
 

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